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How to Set Up a Tent

The product has received 158 reviews, with an average rating of 4.4 stars. This article is part of a series on a variety of topics: Backpacking 101: What You Need to Know A well-pitched shelter is evident when the sunlight streams through the tent window after you’ve slept well through a squall-pelting night of wind and rain. This article might assist you if you have never put up a tent before, if it has been a long time since your last camping trip, or if you simply want some suggestions on how to make the procedure go more smoothly.

Preparation for the trip: Practice throwing and double-check that you have everything
Campsite selection should be made with the goal of minimizing environmental impact while maximizing weather protection. Pitching Instructions: Follow these procedures to make setup easier and your tent more durable
Guidance for guys on the phone: To prepare for heavy winds, you should learn how to correctly use guylines.

Video: How to Set Up a Tent

Set up your tent at home first, before you head out on the trail: The comfort of your own home provides a stress-free atmosphere in which to learn how to pitch a new tent. Trying to learn anything new when you’ve just returned from a hard day of trekking, when the sun has set and the rain is coming down sideways is a recipe for disaster. Read the instructions thoroughly and make a list of the components: Less confusion and damage to tent pieces may be avoided by carefully reading the directions rather than just taking a bunch of stuff and winging it.

Do not forget to bring a copy of the instructions with you as well.
An inexpensive solution is to purchase a footprint, which is a custom-sized ground sheet that provides an additional layer of protection.
Footprints are smaller in size than your tent floor in order to prevent rainfall from collecting and pooling under your tent.
If you’re bringing a whole tarp, be sure that no portion of it goes beyond the edge of the floor space.

Tent Setup: Campsite Selection

Take care to follow the principles of “Leave No Trace”: This list of best practices for preserving our natural places contains information on where to put up your tent.

In heavily frequented places, look for established campsites to stay at. Always camp at least 200 feet away from bodies of water such as lakes and streams. Keep campsites to a minimum: Concentrate your efforts in locations where there is no vegetation
Disperse use in virgin regions to prevent the establishment of new campsites
Avoid locations where consequences are only beginning to manifest themselves.

Wind and rain strategies: Even though a high-quality tent is designed to withstand both wind and rain, you may reduce stress and danger by choosing places that provide some natural shelter from the elements. In order to avoid wind-related problems:

Find natural windbreaks like a stand of trees or a hill that can act as a barrier between you and the prevailing breeze. Camping near downed trees or limbs that might be blown over by a strong wind is not recommended. Although many campers prefer to position their tents with the smaller side facing the wind in order to lessen wind resistance, it is more vital to position the side with the strongest pole structure facing the wind. If you’re camping in a hot climate, position a door so that it faces the breeze to keep cool.

In order to avoid water-related problems, implement the following measures:

Attempt to choose higher, drier land so that there is less moisture in the air to cause condensation to accumulate within the tent when temperatures decrease. Consider locations under trees since they provide a warmer, more sheltered microclimate that will result in less condensation. You should avoid setting up tent in low regions between high areas since chilly, moist air tends to collect here. When a storm comes through, rain can also channel through and collect in pools. Doors should be oriented away from the wind to prevent rain from blowing in.

Video: How to Select a Campsite

Organize the rubbish around your tent site: Your aim is to keep the tent floor safe and to get rid of anything that could poke you in the behind. It should be noted that this is not an excavation project: If you believe your current site requires extensive maintenance, consider switching to a different one. Stake down tent corners if it’s going to be windy: When there’s a lot of wind, setting up your tent might feel more like flying a kite than anything else. It’s an easy chore to reposition your tent in its final position if you stake down the corners quickly at the beginning of your trip.

Slow down while you’re using the poles: Poles are susceptible to being bent or chipped during the setup process, so spend a few additional time to unfold and seat each pole segment with care. Tactics for securing a victory:

When driving a stake into most types of soil, make sure the stake is completely vertical as you drive it in
Otherwise, the stake will lose its holding strength. You should leave just enough of the stake exposed for you to be able to slip a tie-down cord over it. If you are unable to drive the stake into the ground with your hand or foot, you can use a large rock for this purpose
You can also bring a stake hammer with you. Extra stakes should be brought in case any concealed rock pretzels turn out to be one of yours. Consider bringing sand anchors or snow stakes with you if you’re going to be in such conditions.

Most tents include numerous Velcro wraps near tent poles, which may be used to stabilize and strengthen your tent. On the underside of most rainflies, there are several Velcro wraps near tent poles; wrapping each of these around a nearby pole can help support and reinforce your tent. Master the art of fly tensioning by following these steps: A tight rainfly is essential for a well erected tent. Most rainflys are equipped with straps that may be tightened at the tent corners. Keep them snug and even throughout the day.

Do not over-stress the first fly corner during initial setup
Instead, wait until the fly is fully on and then tension all corners evenly. If seams on the fly do not line up with seams and poles on the tent body, tensioning should be adjusted until they do
If they do not line up, tension should be adjusted until they do. Always check the tension of your rainfly after it has been wet because most fly material expands when it is wet.

Tent Setup: Guyline Guidance

Guylines are included with the majority of tents to provide additional stability in high winds. Then you attach them to robust loops (guyout points) that are strategically placed around the rainfly’s body. Guyout points are located around halfway up a tent wall, right above a pole. The use of guylines is entirely optional. However, if the weather prediction is uncertain, it will be lot easier to set up before midnight when the weather is still pleasant and pleasant. It is important to note that the loops on the bottom border of the rainfly are for staking the fly away from the tent, not for attaching a guyline to provide stability.

Take along additional guyline cord so that you may extend the length of the line or add more guylines if necessary; you should also bring along extra stakes and guyline tensioners (small plastic parts that make it easy to tighten your cord).

To tighten the guyline at the tent stake if you have lost or run out of tensioners, you may use a trucker’s hitch to help you out.

Use the following strategies to increase stability:

It is recommended that you tie guylines to the tent’s guyout points on the windward side (the side from which the wind is blowing)
However, this is not mandatory. If you want your tent to be more stable, place guyout points around it in a regular pattern
Your objective is to have all four sides of the tent equally stable.

It is recommended that you tie guylines to the tent’s guyout points on the windward side (the side from which the wind is blowing); however, this is not required. Add guyout points evenly spaced around the tent to increase its stability; the objective is to have all four sides of the tent equally stabilized; and

Attach the guyline to the guyout point with a fixed knot, then draw the guyline directly outward from the pole that is beneath the guyout point, looping the other end of the line over a stake that is well away from the tent corner
Tighten the guyline tensioner. If at all feasible, route the guyline perpendicular to the guyout point in addition to paralleling it. If you don’t have access to a tree limb, you can use a trekking pole: Install the guyline over the top of the pole and then down to a stake to secure the structure. Tent strength is significantly increased as a result of this.

Video: How to Guy Out a Tent

Jon Almquist works as a product manager for tents at the REI Co-op headquarters in Kent, Washington.

Laura Evenson

Currently, Laura Evenson works as a sales lead in the camp and climb departments at the REI Conshohocken location in Pennsylvania. Laura’s 2013 Appalachian Trail thru-hike included 27 consecutive days of rain, demonstrating her tenacity as an adventurer.

Chris Pottinger

Chris Pottinger works at REI Co-op in Kent, Washington, as a senior tent designer.

6 Genius Camping Hacks using VELCRO® Brand Fasteners – The Helpful Hiker

Anyone who has followed our camping adventures over the last several years will be familiar with our penchant for purchasing new (and often pricey) camping equipment. However, this does not always have to be the case! We’ve discovered that some of the most beneficial pieces of equipment have been ordinary objects that we either already had at home or were able to obtain for a very low cost. Following in the same vein, here are six brilliant camping hacks that make use of inexpensiveVELCRO® Brand goods.

Putting up and taking down the tent are, in our opinion, the most stressful aspects of a camping vacation, so why not make it as simple as possible?
As a matter of fact, VELCRO® Brand One-Wrap Ties are great for tying up any loose ends on the tent, keeping lines from becoming tangled, and, hopefully, sparing a few conflicts in the process.
This is all well and good, but it also implies that we need to devise a way to keep them all charged at the same time.
During our trip, we make every effort to keep our tent as clean and organized as possible, but things may rapidly become disorganized.
This eliminates the need for me to scramble about hunting for the correct charger while the battery on my phone drains before my own eyes.
Lights that hang from the ceiling Because VELCRO® Brand One-Wrap Ties are so adaptable, I’ve come up with yet another brilliant camping hack that makes use of them.
Because they are extremely robust while being thin and readily trimmed to fit, you may use them to hang most lights in virtually any tent.

How to Set Up a Tent Guyline – Appalachian Mountain Club

ISTOCK To keep a tent dry and robust, it is critical to understand how to correctly set up guylines. It’s raining, it’s pouring, and there’s a strong wind blowing. In such situations, it is imperative that your tent guylines are correctly installed. If you do not, you might anticipate water to seep into your tent or, in a more extreme circumstance, a snapped pole and the collapse of your tent. It’s preferable to make your wilderness shelter as bomb-proof as possible before you need it. Here’s all you need to know about the situation.

Several guylines are attached to the rainfly of a tent and then tautly anchored into the ground a short distance away from the tent to provide additional support.
Second, they strengthen the structural integrity of the tent, preventing severe winds and winter snow loads from causing the poles to bend excessively and potentially snapping the tent’s fabric.
The importance of keeping your tent dryWhen it is chilly and damp, a significant amount of condensation may accumulate on the underside of a rainfly.
Another typical cause of leakage is the bottom corners and edges of the tent body, especially if water is dripping right off the rainfly and onto them.
Maintain in mind that tent materials, particularly silnylon, may droop as they cool and become wet; check and re-tension guylines on a regular basis to keep the rainfly in place.
For this, you’ll want to make use of the guyline loops that are located around halfway up the rainfly.
The most important thing to remember about guylines is that, when it comes to boosting stability, they are most successful when they are used to strengthen the poles rather than merely the rainfly.

These are critical in ensuring a secure connection between the guylines and the tent’s pole framework.

If you want to keep the guylines from ripping out in high winds, you should drive stakes into the ground at a right angle to them.) Increasing the tension on your guylines As the weather changes, you’ll need to tension and adjust your guylines on a more frequent basis.

The simplest method is to utilize a trucker’s hitch, which necessitates the acquisition of no extra gear or accessories.

Many inexpensive attachments can make tensioning easier, albeit they may add an ounce or two to the weight of the tensioning tool.

There are several more factors.

Easily tripped over, they can send you flying or cause you to lose your grip on the rainfly’s loop completely.

Some guylines are woven with reflective material, which has a modest advantage at night.

Also keep in mind that most tents do not come with enough stakes to attach both the tent and the guylines; you may need to acquire a few more stakes or be prepared to use rocks, branches, or other natural elements to hold the tent and the guylines in place instead.

Prepare your tent by pitching it against the wind longitudinally rather than broadside, and search for trees or other sheltering objects in the environment to reduce your initial exposure to the elements.

Imperfections: A critique of the Sierra Designs High Route Tent

While not ideal, it may not be the most suited refuge for you based on the circumstances of your vacation, your personal tastes, and your available recreation budget. Using a different tone, I’d want to explore the genuine and perceived defects of the Sierra Designs High Route Tent 1FL, as well as the reasons for their existence in some situations. What are you prepared to give up in order to lose weight? Space, storm resistance, condensation control, adaptability, and pricing are all important considerations.

1. Not a featherweight

In all, the High Route Tent FL1 (HR1) weighs 2 lbs 4 oz (1020 grams), which is significantly heavier than one-person ultralight shelters like as theZPacks Hexamid Soloor aMountain Laurel Designs Cuben Grace Tarp+Superlight Bivy, both of which weigh less than 16 ounces (450 grams). Sincere to my core, the potential weight reductions would be quite appealing if I were embarking on a long-distance trek in reasonably benign circumstances, such as those found on the Pacific Crest or Continental Divide Trails (i.e.

However (and you knew there’d be a “but,” didn’t you?) the HR1 was created for harsher situations, such as prolonged rain, strong winds, fierce bugs, high temperatures and humidity, and mild snowfall.
Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid+Solo InnerNet is a superior standard for such activities, and I would recommend it above other options.
(By the way, I’ve been a long-time patron of MLD shelters.
These shelters will work well in gentler temperatures as well, despite the fact that they are only one shelter in a quiver.
Any solo tent that is lighter than this one comes with significant trade-offs.
Despite the fact that the REI Quarter Dome is somewhat lighter (it weighs 2 oz less), the HR1 has 25 percent more covered square footage than the HR1.

With dimensions of 30 inches by 90 inches by 43 inches, the inside tent is on the small side in comparison to the fly (W x L x H). Some would wish it were a little bigger, so they could have a more spacious living area and maybe even a little extra space for two.

2. Modestly-sized inner tent

Its fly measures 48 inches by 108 inches by 48 inches (width by length by height) and protects 36 square feet of floor space, which is large enough to accommodate one large individual, one individual trapped in their shelter by the weather, one individual plus a dog or an abundance of gear, or two people in close quarters. Comparatively, the fly on the Mountain Hardwear Ghost UL 2 protects 34 square feet of area; it is not as tall as the fly on the Mountain Hardwear Ghost UL 2, and it also has sloping side walls.

There are others who would like it if it filled the fly, giving them additional living space and possibly even room for two.
First, it is lighter than the larger outer tent.
Choices and trade-offs must be made.
Although it is simple, it is recommended that you practice it before heading into the field.

3. Unique pitch

There are only two other shelters that have diagonally positioned poles like the High Route Tent, and neither has the same footprint form as the High Route Tent. In this way, the HR1’s pitching sequence is genuinely one-of-a-kind and not immediately obvious. It is strongly suggested that you rehearse in your backyard prior to your vacation. Fortunately, the pitch is clear and simple to grasp. The HR1’s footprint should be tensioned in the same way as a conventional mid, such as the Black Diamond Mega Light, with equal force and in a perfect rectangle, i.e., 90-degree corners and 45-degree tension lines, much like a conventional mid.

The inner tent may be placed inside the outer tent once the fly has been set.

Take a look at my pitching instructions and suggestions.

4. Vertical side doors

Some have argued that the High Route’s vertical side doors are a hindrance to the structure’s storm-resistance capabilities. Indeed, as compared to a sloping side panel, these barn doors are not nearly as aerodynamic as they may be. This was something that I was concerned about two years ago as well (and, in fact, our first prototype had sloping sides). However, this is no longer the case. In the first instance, the Sierra Designs Tentsegrity, which has similarly curved sides, withstood wind tunnel tests at speeds of up to 40 mph.

The sides were never a source of concern in heavy gusts, owing in part to the fact that they are strengthened by trekking poles.

They maintain its rectangular footprint, which allows for a straightforward pitch.

They provide a dry entry and exit, which means that when you open a door, nothing is damp or soiled.

And they allow for good ventilation even when it’s raining (when humidity is often at its peak), without compromising any of the 36 square feet of covered area available in the structure. The StratoSpire 1, Yama Swiftline 2, and High Route Tent 1FL left their marks on the landscape.

5. It looks like a Stratosphire or Swiftline

As previously said, I am aware of two additional shelters that share the High Route’s diagonal pole positions: the Tarptent Stratosphire and the Yama Mountain Gear Swiftline, both of which are located in the Sierra Nevada. The HR1 has been accused of plagiarism, and some believe that points should be deducted from their score for this. The reality is that we were completely unaware of the existence of either shelter until we received our second prototype in the mail from them. As I designed the HR1, I was looking to minimize some of the difficulties associated with traditional mids and A-frame tarps (under which I’d spent hundreds of nights sleeping), namely: poles in or blocking the sleeping space; low-angle walls; wet ingress; and restricted ventilation during a storm.

With the exception of their pole orientations, the three shelters were all photographed in different directions.

Overall, there is a lot more variance between these tents than there is between A-frame tarps or freestanding dome tents, for example.

This post includes affiliate links, which help to fund the creation of new material on this site.

Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL1 Reviews

The Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL1 is a one-person, ultralight, three-season backpacking tent with a packed weight of 2lb 1oz. It provides decent comfort and extremely good weather resistance for a weight of 2lb 1oz. Pros

Lightweight
Excellent weather resistance
Effective stakes

I purchased my Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL1 a little more than a year ago, after conducting much study on the subject. I’d established a weight limit of four pounds for my tent, sleeping mat, and sleeping bag, and the Fly Creek was gracious enough to allow me to come in only one ounce above that limit. For me, that’s close enough! I can easily cut an ounce off my weight by not bringing stuff sacks with me. The Fly Creek body, which is a “semi-freestanding” tent, requires five posts. It is possible to manually put up the tent without stakes, but the result will be a very loose, sloppy tent due to the fact that staking out the fly provides the majority of the structure.

So, to me, being “semi-freestanding” is like to being “kind of pregnant” or “sort of dead.” Stakes are either not required for a proper tent erection or they are required.
When you open the package containing the tent, you’ll find a tent body, a fly with connected guylines, a bag containing a single DAC pole, a bag containing 11 DAC stakes that actually function, and a stuff sack.
It appears that the setup instructions are printed on a piece of Tyvek that is connected to the stuff sack, which acts as an excellent sealing flap under the drawstring when the sack is closed.
Because any sleeping bag larger than a summer bag will be contacting the walls of the tent when the fly door is closed, it breathes very well even in humid air with the fly door closed.
Small storage pockets are located at the bottom of both side walls, just by the entrance, and a small pocket in the mesh is located at the top of each side wall.
At the top of the tent, there are also loops for a gear loft, although the tent has very little headroom as it is.
There are two little loops on each side of the tent body, which are located around halfway along the tent’s body on the exterior.

To attach to these loops, straps with clips on the inside of the fly are attached to the loops and pulled outward, bringing the walls closer to vertical and providing additional shoulder space.

The rainfly is made of transparent grey silnylon, which is both thin and sturdy at the same time.

Several plastic clips, one in the center of the foot and two at the corners of the head, secure the headrest to the tent body or footprint.

A little Velcro hook is included on the top seam of the fly to allow it to be attached to the pole.

The fly is around 5-6 inches above the ground, which provides good ventilation while simultaneously being low enough to keep the majority of wind-driven moisture out.

There will be more on that later as well.

The DAC pole is made of aluminum.

For myself, I would have loved a little smaller Y at the foot end, but it’s easy to forget about the little things when you’re carrying a lot of stuff.

In a funny way, nice stakes are a strange item to be impressed with, because decent stakes are not something you would expect to discover with a new tent.

It was easy to see that they had hammered (or rocked) themselves solidly into loose rocky earth with a more solid layer of rock beneath the surface when I pulled them out this morning.

Each one has a little hole in the center for a loop of cord to be threaded through.

Because it’s so light, it’s evident that it’s rather thin, but you’ll still want to make sure that your tent site is free of anything pointy.

It’s similar to putting a liner sock under your hiking sock to help prevent blisters from developing.

I plan to create a replacement out of Tyvek when the current one becomes unusable in the near future, though.

In order to carry this tent in my 36l day pack, I usually load it in the bag first, in the opposite order in which I’ll use the components (fly, body, footprint.) Poles and stakes are stored in their bag by tucking them beneath the side compression straps.

Raingear is placed at the very top of the list.

The fabric is THIN in order to achieve this low weight, thus you must be delicate when handling it.

It appeals to me much.

Because it is supplied by BA, it can only be attached in one location, and in heavy gusts, the pole can really move beneath the fly.

This happened to me at the crack of dawn on July 14, right around daybreak.

The prognosis was for increasing clouds and showers later in the night, with winds from the west at 15-20 mph, and temperatures in the low 60s.

After 2130, I fell asleep in the tent, and when I woke up around 2330, the tent was being PUMMELED by the wind and rain.

The fly was getting a serious battering; I’d estimate wind gusts to be at least 30 mph, and maybe as high as 40 mph.

Upon awakening and hearing no rain, I walked out of the tent and examined the stakes holding the guy lines in place.

That was all that was required.

I managed to get a few more hours of unbroken sleep before waking up again just before daybreak to the sensation of the tent crushing down on me and small raindrops blowing through the netting of the tent.

On the leeward side of the vestibule, there had been enough slack built up that the guy loop had come loose from its post.

Consequently, in the late fall, I want to have extra Velcro stitched along the fly seams, approximately every 12″ or so on each of the three pole legs, which should be plenty.

So, if you’re searching for a lightweight 3S1P tent and are willing to put up with some of its shortcomings, the Big Agnes Fly Creek HV UL1 is a good choice.

You can get an even better deal if you buy it on sale, as I did. Experience In this particular tent, I’ve spent three or four nights in a variety of weather and terrain, which is more nights than I can recall in any other tent.

Amazon.com: Customer reviews: Coleman Hooligan Backpacking Tent

This tent is well-constructed (fabric, stitching, mesh, and flooring) and provides a variety of ventilation options to keep the interior pleasant during the day. It is a reasonable size and could comfortably accommodate four persons in mummy bags if all non-essential stuff was removed. When the rainfly isn’t there, the material is predominantly mesh on all four sides. The top side vent is one of the features that distinguishes it from the others. It includes its own little rod support to keep the vent open, as well as a zipper that opens to reveal three latches across the top that may be used to close the vent in the event of rain.

On the side walls, there are two mesh pockets for storing miscellaneous objects that are directly across from each other.
The tent itself requires a total of six stakes.
There are a number of Velcro attachment places to the rods as well; make sure you follow the guidelines and acquire all of them because they are critical to the durability of the tent’s structure.
The only apertures on the rainfly are the vestibule entry, which is protected by an overhang, and the top vent, which are both on the inside.
If rain is coming into the vent, you’ll need to modify the guyed support rope so that the top cover of the vent is at a better angle.
In this situation, you may throw a tarp below your tent and then draw some extra tarp out from underneath it.
Keep this in mind since it may be quicker to load up your tent if your rainfly is not attached.

In the interior of the rainfly, there is a little little pocket designed so that the vestibule doorway may be unzipped and tucked away to allow for more ventilation.

It is important to remember to put up the tent so that the tent doorway faces the wind while you are setting it up in windy circumstances, as indicated in the setup instructions.

This is based on my own firsthand experience in gusts of 25-30 mph.

Despite the fact that I was unable to rotate the tent at the time, I discovered that manipulating the guyed support rope at one end of the tent helped to offer additional stabilization during the stronger gusts.

During calm weather conditions, I was able to simulate the inward pull on both back rods from inside the tent.

As a result, position the front towards the direction of any heavy and/or anticipated windy circumstances.

The tent is easy to fold and store when not in use.

The rods are all of the same length. Although it is probably not the best option for backpacking, it is ideal for our family of three small boys. The time required to set up a lone tent is around 18 minutes, and the time required to tear down and fold up the tent is approximately 20 minutes.

Sunriver 2 Tent by Eureka – Review – Check out the story, photos and see the video.

On the 30th of July, 2017, in Product Reviews, Tents, and Tents|5 comments A few weeks ago, I purchased a Eureka Sunriver 2 backpacking tent. For several years, I’ve been sleeping in an old REI Trail Dome tent. It’s still in perfect working order, but I’ve started backpacking. I’ve been using the Trail Dome, however it weights roughly seven pounds, which is a little too much for a two-person hiking tent of this caliber. I looked around to see how much today’s hiking tents weighed and found out that they were rather heavy.

In reality, prices vary far more widely than that.
The reviews for Sunriver 2 were mostly positive.
According to the manufacturer, it weighs 4 pounds 3 ounces.
The suggested retail price for this item is $160.
For less than $60, I was able to locate some reconditioned returns at Eureka’s outlet shop.
It has a suggested retail price of $160, although it is available for purchase for less than that.

Camper tent with sleeping space for two people, measuring seven feet four inches by four feet seven inches by three feet nine inches
Height of tent is three feet seven inches
Sleeping space is seven feet four inches by three feet nine inches. Weight Requirement: 4 lb 3 oz Minimum Weight Pack Dimensions: 5 x 18 in. The tent has a floor area of 32.6 square feet, while the vestibule has a floor area of 9.7 square feet. Three seasons, one door, one vestibule, one vent in the fly, one gear loft, and two storage pockets Fabric for the walls: 40D polyester no-see-um mesh
Polyester taffeta with an 1800-mm coating in the fly fabric
Polyester taffeta in the floor fabric with an 1800-mm coating in the fly fabric Aluminum is the material used for the poles. Frame: 9.5-inch aluminum postgrommet with shock cords

The tent itself is essentially a waterproof bathtub with netting along the sides and over the top, as shown by the specifications. The fly shields the wearer from the elements such as rain and wind. According to my measurements, the following are the weights of the various parts and components:

The rain fly weighs 1.53 pounds (0.69 kilograms)
The tent weighs 1.75 pounds (0.79 kilograms)
And the sleeping bag weighs 1 pound 8.5 ounces (1.53 pounds (0.69 kilograms). 1.45 kilograms (1 pound or 0.45 kilograms) in the bag
1.45 kilograms (1 pound or 0.45 kilograms) in the bag
Stakes and cord (in a bag): 0 pounds 9 ounces (0.56 pounds or 0.25 kilograms)
Stakes and cord (in a bag): 0 pounds 9 ounces (0.56 pounds or 0.25 kilograms)

My recent 30 mile walk in Oregon’s Wild Rogue Wilderness included three nights in this tent (including one in the rain) and a total carry weight of 4 pounds 13.5 ounces (4.84 pounds or 2.20 kilograms). I used this tent for three nights (including one in the rain). It was a complete success. It was only by utilizing the fly tie-down ropes at the foot of the tent that the tent remained dry. Other ropes are fastened halfway up the fly to ensure that the fly remains firmly separated from the tent even when the wind is blowing strongly.

In my experience, it functioned perfectly, with no condensation or leaking inside the tent.
You can see an example of this in the video below.
The Sunriver 2 is a tank top with no sleeves.
The absence of sleeves makes the tent lighter, and also eliminates the effort of putting and taking the poles in and out of the sleeves each time.
Stakes should be used to hold the tent in place once it has been placed where you want it.

If you happen to be hammering a stake into the ground and you run into a rock, the stake will sag and eventually break. Alternatively, heavier stakes can be used if you prefer to avoid this. It’s also a good idea to read the directions. Here are a few pointers to make your setup go more smoothly:

Install the poles, bring them together above the tent, and then connect the very top of the tent to the crossover point on the poles using the loop and stick arrangement that is affixed to the tent while putting it up. This makes it easy to attach the tent to the poles and ensure that everything functions properly. Always secure the tent to the ground using stakes. If you don’t have those stakes, a sudden blast of wind might easily knock your tent down, even if you’re not carrying anything. Check that the orange strap on the fly corresponds to the orange strap on the tent to ensure that it is properly aligned
Identify the little velcro fasteners hidden beneath the fly’s seams, which are aligned with the tent poles, and secure the fly to these fasteners before attaching it to the tent poles. While you are buckling the fly into position, as well as during severe gusts, this prevents the fly from sliding about. The tent comes with both short and long cords for securing the tent. The short cords are linked to loops in the fly near the ground that are close to the earth. The longer cables are linked to loops in the middle of the tent, about halfway up. Make careful to use short cords and to stake out the bottom of the fly at the same time. This keeps the fly away from the tent’s mesh and prevents leaks caused by moisture or rain from entering the tent. Even though I didn’t utilize the longer cables, they are highly suggested if you are expecting strong gusts or heavy rain. Staking down the fly also helps to keep the tent in place, so that even if the stakes come loose, the tent will not be blown away. On the top of the tarp, there is a single vent for ventilation. Make careful to open the vent with the little velcro-tipped stick that came with it. This aids in the circulation of air between the tent and the fly.

As a whole, I found the Sunriver 2 to be a moderately priced tent that was ideal for my particular style of traveling and camping. The video may be seen in its entirety on YouTube, which also has a bigger version.

camping awning

Because of its enormous shade covering (129ft 2/ 12m 2) and high wind resistance, the 270 XT MAXTM Awning establishes new standards for free standing shade awnings. It also has the same strength and durability as our famous270 XT Awning. When folded, the 270 XT MAXTM Awning measures 7’6″ (2.3m) in length and weighs only 33.5kg. It can be easily mounted to most roof racks or heavy duty load bars using our heavy duty ‘L’ brackets (sold separately), or to our Heavy Duty L Brackets (three of which are included with the awning), or to our Clamshell Roof Top Tents using the appropriate awning to tent bracket (sold separately).

The 270 XT MAXTM awning is available in two different configurations: left hand side (driver’s side in the United States) and right hand side (passenger side in the United States).

Fitting the 270 XT MAX™ Awning

The 270 XT MAXTM Awning frame requires a fitting bracket to be fastened to the stainless steel sections no more than 200mm (7 7/8inch) from each end; there are three Heavy Duty L brackets included with the awning to complete the installation. The awning is not suited for use with roof racks that are shorter than 1.9m (75′′) in length or with load bars that are narrower than 1.9m (75′′) from front to back. A third bracket, positioned in the centre of the awning, is highly recommended by our team.

This bracket is available separately from the tent.

Only the standard270 XT Awning may be used with the Black Series MAXrooftop tent, and it must be fixed directly to the side of the tent.

Ethan Fontole