How To Set Up A Bellwedge Tent

How to put up a double bell wedge tent – 14th Century Renaissance Woman

It is difficult to put up double bell wedge tents because of their form. You might be tempted to simply charge forward and place your hands on the table. It’s possible that you’ll be successful. If this is the case, congratulations! For those of you who have come to me after having to start over numerous times because your tension wasn’t quite perfect, I have some suggestions for you. 1. I owned one of these tents for several years and devised a methodical, simple method of erecting my tent the first time, resulting in a tent that was truly taught and looked fantastic.

Here’s another article on how to pull one down and put it in a clean, tidy packaging if you’re interested in learning how to do so.

Due to the rounded ends of double-bell tents, they are frequently referred to as French double-bells or double-bell-end wedge tents.

The canvas is constructed entirely of one piece.

It looks somewhat like this: Photo 1: a double-bell-end tent fully set up for a special occasion To begin, you’ll need to gather the following items:

  • 1 bell wedge tent
  • 1 ground tarp 15’x22’*
  • 2 upright poles
  • 1 ridge pole
  • Stakes
  • Heavy mallet
  • 1 bell wedge tent

*The tarp I use is 30’x22′ in size. When folded in half, it becomes a tarp that is 15 feet wide. 15′ is the width of the canvas/tarp and 22′ is the length, which will be used as a reference throughout this work. Step 1: Spread the ground tarp out on the ground. This will assist you in determining the breadth of the tent fabric before you begin erecting the tent. Please keep in mind that the tarp is around 2-3 feet short throughout the width of this tent, so you’ll want to allow plenty of space between you and any surrounding items at both ends.

  • It is not possible to draw the canvas taut before putting the poles up.
  • The canvas can’t be laid down on the ground to get a genuine idea of how much room it will take up since it is too large.
  • 2.
  • The tent will be constructed from the inside out.
  • Make certain that the tent is turned right side out.
  • Place them under the canvas in the approximate locations shown by the diagram.

Step 4: Gather four stakes and a mallet for the project. Begin with the two loops at the front of the tent that are one loop away from the door (not directly to each side of the door, but one loop away from that) and are one loop away from the door. Take a look at the four Xs on this diagram:

Diagram 1 shows the location of the first four stakes. Step 5:Place the canvas so that the mud flap is tucked inside/under the tarp, just at the edge of the tarp, and fasten it in place. At this stage, the tarp may be placed on top of the mud flap. Drive the stakes all the way into the ground, making sure the canvas is tight between the stakes as you do so. The failure to complete this step will result in a leaking door. To complete Step 6, gather up the remaining two stakes and go around to the rear of the tent, looking for the loops that correspond to the loops you staked at the front.

  1. At this stage, the tarp may be placed on top of the mud flap.
  2. It is not necessary to pull the canvas taut over the whole width of the tent.
  3. You’ll need to recruit a teammate who’s a little bit stronger than you.
  4. You won’t be in need of their assistance for very long.
  5. Discover the enormous circular grommets with holes in them, which are where the upright poles are supposed to go.
  6. Repeat this process with the other upright pole.
  7. Pick up the upright pole somewhere in the center and then, working together and at the same time as your companion (to avoid twisting the ridge beam), raise the canvas up and plant the upright pole straight up and down onto the tarp.

As soon as you secure the canvas with stakes, you will be unable to move it.

Thank you for your assistance.

Step 13: Gather the remainder of the stakes and proceed to one of the bell end locations.

The loop that comes directly off the end of the upright pole is the fourteenth step to take ( 1 in the diagram below).

Maintain your attention here or you will wind up with either a very skewed bell end or with stakes pulled out of the ground.

You want this line to be as tight as possible.

DO NOT JUST DO THE NEXT LOOP OVER or you will be sorry I assure you.

Step 17:Keep going,always choosing the middle loopuntil you’ve staked out the bell end.

See the diagram for an illustration. I don’t recall precisely how many loops there are in each of the bells. The principle is the same. Tuck the tarp under the mud flap when you get to the corners, it’s a rectangle so you’ll end up with some extra tarp.

Diagram 2: the sequence in which stakes are hammered into the bell-end Step 18:Put a stake down along the front and rear of the tent, making sure to tuck the mud flap under and keep everything nice and taut throughout. Step 19:When you reach the other bell end, repeat the procedure of starting with the center and working your way out. Stake the other long edge of the fence with a stake. As time passes, it becomes simpler to maintain a tight seal on everything. Step 21:After everything has been staked down, go inside and place the tarp on top of the mud flap.

You may download and print these directions (together with takedown instructions) by clicking here.

Pavilion – Bell Wedge

WEDGES FOR BELLS—GENERAL Yes, the French Bell Wedge Tent is a beautiful and unique Pavilion, and I have to concur with you. Mine was purchased the previous year (before Pennsic 24). Panther Pavilionstransported it to Pennsic, and despite the extreme heat that year, I was able to sleep until around 8 or 9 a.m. or even later (however, being my first Pennsic I hardlyever got a chance to sleep that late). During this year’s tremendous storm on Thursday, the one tent in our camp area that no one expected to be destroyed was my French Bell Wedge, which I had brought with me from home.

  1. Just keep in mind that it’s critical to have the ties tied near to the material in order to get a good seal.
  2. A French Arming Pavilion could be a good option for you to consider.
  3. The tent floor is shaped like a rectangle with two semi-circles appended to the ends of the rectangle to form a square.
  4. It is simple to construct a framework for it: If you want to keep things simple, you could only use three poles, one reaching up to the peak of each semi-cone and the other connecting those two.
  5. You could definitely get away with with two poles if you wanted to (one at each end).
  6. Leave enough excess length so that the cones can be overlapping.
  7. Sew strengthened loops at the bottoms of the panels to serve as stakes, and sew ties along the side edges to hold them in place against the end panels.

The semi-cones at the ends are created by stitching triangular sections together.

Those are folded inside the tent to create a foot-wide boundary on the ground within the tent, and your ground tarp is placed over that, along with your chests and other belongings, to keep the elements out.

In order to cover the entire center area of a tent with a 10w x 8d x 8h foot center area and two 4 foot radius 8 foot high semi-cones at the ends, a 25′ x 12′ center canvas (with allowance for overlap) (300 sq.ft.) would be needed, and the end semi-cones would require 50 sq.ft.

of canvas.

Due to the fact that all of the parts are rectangles and triangles, there should be very little waste.

When using the more straightforward 3-pole configuration, only two 8-foot poles and one 10-foot pole are required.

According to what I’ve heard, it’s a period design.

per person).

Overnight, you may elevate one side with poles to offer an additional 80 sq.ft of cover area, or you can sew a separate 10x12flap onto one side of the central canvas to function as a “storm door” and fair-weather porch awning during the daytime.

When a wedge tent is 8 feet wide and 8 feet tall, the swingset frame with sloping poles will be slightly about 9 feet long, not 12 feet, as shown in the illustration.

In addition, the process of estimating the fabric for the cones is a mysterytome in and of itself.

– written by Barbara Handley with assistance.

On page 38 of Osprey Publishing’s Medieval German Armies 1300-1500 by ChristopherGravett, you may see a picture of a military camp in the late 15th century from the MittelalterlichesHausbuch (Bodleian Library 247139 c 4), which can be found at the Bodleian Library.

Among the ornamentation on one is one pair of indistinguishable arms (heater-shaped), which are located over the arch-topped entryway.

-IvarHakonarson An Tir, Adiantum, Adiantum, An Tir I don’t have my notes with me right now, but I’d suggest checking at either _Tensile Architecture_ or _The Tent Book_ for inspiration.

In the illustration, the ridge-pole continues out through the ends, which is advantageous in that it provides a location to connect storm-stays and other accessories (Normally, the fabric of the tentholds it up.) In addition, it is detrimental in that it causes you to install dagging over the top to keep water out of the openings.

  • My mistake was that it would have been difficult to fix, so I decided to sell the item instead of attempting to repair it myself.
  • The real useable size is around 12×6 on the interior.
  • According to the rating system used by current tent manufacturers, it can accommodate four people.
  • The archives provide a description of one particular style that seems similar, but I am unable to determine whether it is the same)?
  • It only has three poles, and if you ignore the ridgepole, it only has two.
  • As a result of the high profile, you can either stand up comfortably or hang a clothesline between the uprights, but not both at the same time.
  • This should be resolved by increasing the size and/or number of prizes available.

In terms of usable area inside relative to its footprint in the campsite, it’s not very efficient; this is especially true when the stormlines are not in use; nevertheless, this is only a significant issue at Pennsic.

The tips of the ridgepole can be left fluttering while the rest of the mess is covered with dagging if the ridgepole reaches through the canvas.

Set up four exterior storm lines that are attached to the ridgepole, and place tiny tent pegs every foot around the perimeter, with large tent pegs at each corner and centered in the bell-section of the structure.

See also:  The Maidens Who Guarded The Tent Of Meetings

Both the wedge and each half bell were made from two 6-yard lengths that were sewn togethersideways, with the wedge being made from two 3-yard lengths that were cut diagonally and put back together.

It is spacious for one person, uncomfortable for two, and can accommodate up to four people with forethought and tolerance.

A FRAMEA FRAME-GENERAL FRAME-GENERAL My a-frame tent design has a footprint of 9.5 feet square.

For the sake of simplicity in determining the door panel forms, I recommend that the end be an equilateral triangle.

My frame is made up of five pieces of 10 foot “2×4” lumber.

The bottom of the uprights are punctured so that the frame may be anchored down without the fabric in place.

To climb on this frame, you must be physically fit.

Thick saplings would have been more appropriate, but I only had “2×4” on hand.

A landesknect tent is constructed from a five-spear frame.

Having used this sort of tent for over two decades, I can vouch for its durability.

It is, on the other hand, a good idea to allow for some overlap between them.

Place grommets near the edge of each flap and tie the loop to the grommet to hold the flaps closed.

-HalHal Ravn, the West Kingdom’s savior Mr.

Heydt Jr.’s address is Albany, CA 94706, and his phone number is 510/524-8321 (home) After repeated futile attempts to recall my memories, I ultimately brought what little I had with me to the office.

However, while it is possible that the majority of ship’s crew slept outside when the ship was docked, it is more probable that those who were more prominent on board had sleeping quarters as well as an awning to shield them from the elements.

The Gokstad ship was equipped with one tent and six beds, one of which was ornately carved while the others were simple.

When the sailcloth was stretched over the frame, the only thing that could be seen were the creatures’ heads.

The Gokstad tent’s edge boards dangle over the tiny boats and at the bottom of the ‘4th wing,’ where they are visible.

Although it is not a comprehensive reference, it does direct the reader to a primary source.

is a member of the Rick C.

I had no problems with the wind at Pennsic, and I didn’t notice a single drop of leakage.

tk Is there a source for A-Frame Pavillion construction instructions/patterns that anybody knows of?

Or anything that can be proven to be historical?

If your design is vaguely Viking, your frame will be depending on several other parameters, including the width of your canvas, the length of the side walls, and the height of the A.

I would start with the breadth of the cloth and work my way down to the length I wanted the tent to be (10-16 feet would be about normal), from there I would figure out how many complete panels I needed and then add or subtract a panel to get to a width I could deal with.

Allow the finished length of the canvas panels to serve as the determining factor for the length of the two vertical parts of the triangle.

According to what I’ve heard, elevating that piece of furniture a few inches off the ground and using a mud flap will help keep rot at bay.

You want them to cross over themselves to aid in the prevention of wind and rain.

You will need to trim the bottom bracing in order to prevent the tent’s long ends from settling.

Once you’ve chosen what size you need, you may cut the doors to fit perfectly.

This video walks you through the process of building a basic modified ‘A-Frame’ pavilion step-by-step.

(This information was provided by LordFinnr Mathie of Dreiburgen) It is possible to purchase this film for $14.95 plus $2.50 shipping and handling from Dark Knight Productions, 8662 Garfield St.

(Alternatively, inquire with your local retailers about carrying it.) Residents of California, please include Sales tax is 7.75 percent (about $1.16 for $100 spent).

Because I was going for a middle eastern character, I covered the front of it (which was about all you could see because we were crowded so closely) with a wide sheet of thick cloth from which I cut a keyhole.

I also placed gauzy cloth in the aperture to keep off flies and inquisitive eyes.

And it was a lot of fun to put together!

As for your question about how I dealt with the long poles, I made the struts and other stuff out of 5/4 stock in a variety of sizes (5/4 x 6 for the ridgepole with two 5/4 x 4 pieces glued together to form the “pole” part at the top) and made each pole, strut, and other piece with timberframe joints so that they could be broken down for travel and transport while still being able to be put back together quickly once they arrived.

at a location where pegs were available, or in the instance of the struts where a clamplike action as well as a peg was required to keep the joint from sliding, I created woodenbolts and nuts out of dowels, balls, and, in some cases, wooden toy wheels to hold the joint together.

It all fits along with my other equipment in our Mercury Villager as well (the earlier set, which was a little less tough and detailed, was designed to fit in the back seat of a Volvo!).


Medieval Double Bell Wedge Replica Tent For Sale

The Double Bell Wedge may be found in the Home/Shop by Era/MedievalRenaissance section. $ 787.00 to $1,392.00 (USD) It may be seen in a number of medieval paintings and drawings as a double belled wedge tent. Many of these tents are seen in use and in the process of being erected in Henry the VIII’s camp picture. Because the door is located in the center of the tent’s body, it provides useable floor space while taking up no additional room for guy lines. Because of their triangular cross section, the tents are extremely robust and can endure any weather that may be thrown at them.

  1. The double bells are manufactured by TENTSMITHS in a variety of sizes.
  2. We have two different door styles to choose from.
  3. It is available in two sizes.
  4. The material used in Tentsmith tents is 10 oz.

Additional information

Weight 1 oz
Dimensions 1 × 1 × 1 in
Size 10′ x 15’6″ x 8′, 10′ x 18’6″ x 8′, 10′ x 21′ x 8′, 12′ x 20’6″ x 10′, 12′ x 23′ x 10′, 12′ x 26′ x 10′, 15′ x 27′ x 10′, 15′ x 30′ x 10′

general tent designs/title/headbodyBODY HTMLHEADTITLE GENERAL TENT DESIGNS background=”tdback.gif” The body text is: “222222” link=”660000″ title=”660000″ description=”660000″ vlink=”663366″ vlink=”663366″ vlink=”663366″ vlink=”663366″ alink=”663366″ alt=”663366″ size=5 for the centerbifont Designs for Tents in General /i/bpfont size=4 by Ceara N ill/centerfont size=3p by Ceara N Throughout my travels, I have come across a variety of various designs of historical pavilions.

  • Some of the most common tents used in the SCA are described here along with what to anticipate from the many designs available.
  • A link to “tents-weather-msg” in a href=” target=”new” “/a.
  • /a.
  • /a.
  • Another option is to join the Medieval Encampments e-mail list on Yahoo!
  • You’ll most likely find answers to the majority of your inquiries on this page.
  • Examine everything, determine what is best for YOU, and then construct a small model of the tent incorporating all of the seams and other details that will be used in the full-size version.
  • Photographs are gathered using Google image searches that are linked back to the source site.

CELLPADDING=7 WIDTH=”100 percent ” trtd valign=”top” centerfont size=4 valign=”top” centerfont size=4 valign=”top” centerfont size=4 valign=”top” centerfont size=4 valign=”top” centerfont size=4 b A-frame for the Vikings /bbra href=” SRC=” width=300/a/center/tdtd href=” SRC=” width=300/a/center/tdtd href=” SRC=” WIDTH=”79 percent” VALIGN=TOP WIDTH=”79 percent” HEIGHT=”91″font size=”3″ COLOR=”BLUE” Archaeological artifacts and existing building are used to construct a conjecturally period pavilion, known as the Viking A-Frame tent in the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA).

  • The frame is made up of ten pieces of lumber: two side rails, a ridge pole, two ends, and four cross-beams, among other things.
  • It does not require the use of pegs, thus it can be set up anywhere, including a paved parking lot, without difficulty.
  • The most of the time, unless the tent is rather large, there is not much head room.
  • The inside rope support is required since the canvas is draped over a wooden frame rather than being held up by tension, and it helps to prevent the fabric from drooping excessively when wet.
  • This is especially true in open areas where this design has been known to go over.
  • Simply place the contemporary tent inside the Viking tent to maintain concealment while providing cover from the heat and the rain.

br/td/trtrtd valign=”top” centerfont size=4 br/td/trtrtd valign=”top” centerfont size=4 b English Geteld /bbra href=” SRC ” width=300/a/center/tdtd Anglo-Saxon Geteld WIDTH=”79 percent” VALIGN=TOP WIDTH=”79 percent” HEIGHT=”91″font size=”3″ COLOR=”BLUE” This documentable tent is supported by two upright support poles and one ridge pole, and it is a good example of the Anglo-Saxon style.

  1. /p In all save the fact that the ends splay out and the ridge is a bit different, the canvas design is essentially identical to the Viking A-Frame pattern.
  2. This permits the doors to completely overlap, as opposed to the A-frame tent, which has the ridge pole portruding slightly at the ends of each peak.
  3. However, for modern purposes, a decent average size is around 12 feet tall and 16 feet broad at the base.
  4. pb Configuration: /b It is possible to complete the task with one person, but it is much simpler with two.
  5. Three upright poles and one ridge pole support the structure, which has a rectangular core and conical ends.
  6. The poles of the Bell Wedge, on the other hand, are totally contained within the tent, with the exception of a few rare instances in which pennons or golden finials ornament the tent and are set on spikes that project from the upright support poles and through the tent’s roof to the ground.
  7. It is common to have a flat shade fly connected, or the side of the tent will open with the door flap rising to reveal a flat shade fly attached to the tent.

The conical ends provide a little amount of additional usable area on the interior.

It can be circular, square, rectangular, or oval in shape, with straight or splayed walls.

It can have one center support pole or two center support poles.

The remainder are mainly identified by their geometrical forms (round or square).

The conical roof of the circular Marquis is a distinctive feature.

The usage of a ridge pole will be necessary if you are using more than one center support pole.

Because of the straight walls’ resistance to wind and their straightness, it is critical to maintain tension on all guy lines at all times.

See also:  How To Clean Mold And Mildew Off A Tent

It is made of cedar.

The marquis is quite adaptable in terms of area, but it is also somewhat high-maintenance.

Typically, these tents have VERY long guy lines, which can more than double the footprint of your tent.

Personally, I’d like to make better use of a smaller area and not have to be concerned about leaks caused by drooping roof shingles.

Use whatever method works best for you; either option is OK.

Because of the splayed walls, the pavilion has a little more stability and space on the interior.

Making it easy to put up and carry the tent is another benefit.

In a similar fashion to the Bell Wedge, some people use upright supports with spikes on the end that extend through the ceiling.

/ppb Setup: /b The square Marquis (with a single center pole) is a simple structure that may be erected by one person.

/td/trtr/tdtd valign=”top” centerfont size=4b valign=”top” centerfont size=4b valign=”top” centerfont size=4b valign=”top” centerfont size=4b valign=”top” centerfont size=4b Yurt/Gher /bbra href=” SRC=” width=300/a/center/td/center/tdtd /bbra href=” SRC=” width=300/a/center/td/center/tdtd VALIGN=TOP WIDTH=”79 percent ” HEIGHT=”91 percent ” font size=3 VALIGN=TOP WIDTH=”79 percent ” HEIGHT=”91 percent ” Nomadic tribes in the Middle East continue to use this nomadic tent today, despite the fact that it is from a bygone era.

  1. The perimeter is comprised of a retractable grid that resembles the face of a wine rack (only larger), as well as roof spokes that are fixed into a central ring of metal.
  2. Often, a small wooden door is installed in the Yurt to allow for ventilation.
  3. It has been said that 2-3 people can put one up, but in general, the more the number of people participating, the easier it is to do.
  4. There is no vertical center pole, and there are no guy ropes or stakes, but it does make use of ropes to hold the canvas to the lumber-heavy inside structure, which is supported by the canvas.
  5. People who are over six feet tall will normally have to duck to get through the entryway, but once inside, there is plenty of head room.
  6. A belly band is a broad band that belts the girth of the tent and helps to hold the fabric in place while keeping the structure in place.
  7. It’s no surprise that the Mongols possessed enormous carriages to transport these massive structures in their entirety.
  8. /ppb Configuration: /b The greater the number, the better!
  9. It is really simple to put together and holds up well in adverse weather, including high winds.
  10. The tent’s sides are supported by the spokes, which fit into the hub.

/ppb In most cases, one person will be sufficient, unless the tent is exceptionally large, in which case two or three people will be sufficient./tablebrfont size=3p More information about period pavilions, including their history and construction plans, may be found ata href= “Medieval Pavilion Resources /i/a is a massive website that has everything you could ever want to know about period tents.

/ ppa href=”href=””There is a timeline, as well as a description of various pavilions with supporting documentation./pp Table of medieval and Renaissance tent pictures /i/a; a timeline and description of various pavilions with supporting documentation.

/p It is possible to find additional images by visiting many SCA and SCA-related websites, particularly those that provide stories on thea href= “I.A.P.

a href=””hl=en sa=1 q=medieval+tent btnG=Search+images aq=f oq= aqi=g1 start=0 hl=en sa=1 q=medieval+tent btnG=Search+images ” “The Medieval Tent” /aora href=” hl=en sa=1 q=medieval+pavilion btnG=Search+images aq=f oq= start=0 aq=f oq= Medieval Tent” ” The “Medieval Pavilion” /a./center/body/html href=”Home /a|a href=” Members /a|a href=” ProjectsArtwork /a|a href=” PastTimes on the Web /a|a href=” Early Period /abra href=” Photo Gallery /a|a href=” Bardic Resources /a|a href=” Alex’

How to Set Up and Fold Up a Bell Tent

Putting up a bell tent is quite straightforward, as many people are shocked to discover. Like most things in life, learning how to pitch a bell tent the first time will need some patience as you become acquainted with the engineering that goes into these incredible canvas tents. After the first time, setting up the bell tent will take no more than 15 minutes, which is comparable to the time it takes to set up a typical polyester camping tent.

Setting up the Bell Tent

Abell tents can keep the weather out while keeping you and your roommates warm if they are set up correctly. Carefully follow the easy procedures outlined here to construct a weatherproof shelter that will protect you from the elements that Mother Nature may throw at you unexpectedly. Only one fast trick to keep the interior of your bell tent dry: tighten the guy wires and zip shut all of your window and door openings! You may also check out our instructive video on the subject:


Look for an open, level, and dry place that is free of obstructions. Avoid sleeping in a spot that is plainly in the direction of water flow – you don’t want to wake up in the middle of a stream or pond after a heavy downpour, do you? However, even while trees give excellent shade, it is better to avoid contact with the sap and bird droppings that they are known to deposit on canvas. Next, prepare a nice, clean base for yourself and remove the area where you intend to set up the bell tent of any sticks and stones that may be in the way.

Step 2: Lay down a ground tarp

The majority of bell tents come with a built-in waterproof floor that will keep you dry and comfortable. However, we strongly recommend that you use an additional barrier between your canvas tent and the ground in order to extend the life of your tent (and speed up the take down process). It is important to keep extra dirt and moisture away from your canvas tent since both of these factors can foster the formation of mold and mildew. It also makes it easier to pack your yurt tent more quickly since it considerably decreases the amount of dirt and wetness that has to be cleaned up before folding up your tent and putting it away.

Step 3: Unpack and Unfold the Bell Tent

Dumping the bell tent bag onto the center of the tarp (if one is available) is the proper way to exit the tent. Begin unfolding the tent and draping it over the tarp. Keep an eye out for the location of the tent door. Set up the tent entrance such that it faces in the direction that you had in mind when you first imagined it (hopefully with a good view).

Step 4: Peg the Groundsheet Floor

Take out the little metal pegs and your hammer and get to work. Begin by inserting three pegs at a 45-degree angle beneath the door and into the metal grommets.

Pull the bungee cords over the tent stakes as you go (this helps the canvas to cover the zippered groundsheet and keep any rain from seeping in). Make sure to pull the groundsheet tight as you peg it down– this will help to prevent creases from forming on the bottom of the tent.

Step 5: Install the Center Pole

Assembly of the center pole may be done while standing outside the tent. Make certain that the pole’s ends are protected with rubber or plastic coverings in order to avoid damaging the fabric or the tent floor. Remove your shoes from inside the house by unzipping the door (this keeps your floor clean). Walk into the tent with the “little hoop” end of the pole in front of you, and close the door behind you (these hoops can be used for hanging items and should be closest to the ceiling). Locate the center cone of the tent ceiling and join it to the top end of the pole using a piece of string.

It may be necessary to “flap” the canvas about you in order to offer slack and alleviate the stress.

Now is a good time to ask a buddy to hand you the door poles.

Step 6: Install the Doors A-Frame Pole

Assemble the A-frame pole on the interior of the tent while your shoes are still on. Incorporate the metal “spike” at the top of the A-frame pole into the canvas above the entrance by threading it through the matching grommet hole in the fabric. To make the door stand upright, slide the frame of the poles forward, into the area on either side of the door until it is erect. Placing the pole’s foot into the “pockets” on the floor will help to keep it secure. Step outside and secure the plastic rain cap on the top of the tent’s spike, which should now be visible from the outside.

Step 7: Stake the Guy Line Ropes

Make careful to zip the bell tent door closed before continuing to avoid overtightening the guy wires, which will make it harder to zip close the door later. Take a hold of the huge metal stakes. Begin with the rope over the front entrance, staked at a 45-degree angle to the ground. The guy line ropes should reach straight out from the tent seams and away from the ground. Changing the shape of a wall is as simple as moving the stake to the left or right a few inches to make it look more or less square.

Because the walls of ourLife inTentsTM bell tents are higher than those of typical bell tents, you may choose to use the accompanying outer wall support posts to improve the overall shape of the tent.

These should be set at equal distances from the tent walls so that they follow the seam lines of the roof and are preferably parallel to them.

Once all of the guy lines have been set, use the rope sli ders to tighten all of the guy lines.

Rolling Up The Walls

The ability to unzip the floor and roll up the canvas and/or screen wall on some bell tents will allow you to create a little more wind and circulation in the tent. The arrangement of wall posts on the outside of Life IntentionsTM bell tents Start by taking the tent apart from the ground by unzipping it from top to bottom all of the way around.

After that, securely roll the wall upwards and fasten it with the string loops and toggles that have previously been affixed to the inside walls near where the guy line ropes extend from the bell tent, as shown in the photo.

How to Pack Up A Bell Tent

The task of putting a tent back into its bag has long been considered a curse. Follow these measures to make your life a little simpler on yourself. You may also refer to ourBell Tent Set Up and Take Downvideo for a more visual representation of the process. Tents that are wet or have a soiled floor should never be packed up. If you must do so, make sure to dry and clean the canvas within 72 hours to avoid mold and mildew from growing on the surface of the canvas.

See also:  What Is The Best Tent Available 6 Feet

Step 1: Sweep the Tent Out

We strongly advise that you sweep and dry the floor of your bell tent before packing it away. When you fold the tent up, any dirt that has accumulated in the tent will become one with the fabric ceiling.

Step 2: Remove Guy Line Pegs

Take the guy line pegs out of their bag, clean them off, and put them back in their pouch.

Step 3: Remove Inner Poles

Remove your shoes first, then the A-frame pole, followed by the center pole, and place them back in their respective bags as soon as possible (any dirt that collects on your poles will be deposited back in the bell tent the next time you set it up). Make certain that the canvas walls and ceiling do not come into contact with any unclean or damp ground surfaces.

Step 4: Remove Pegs from the Groundsheet

Remove the remaining pegs from the groundsheet foundation of the tent, leaving only a few to secure the groundsheet. Remove them off the table and place them back in their bag.

Step 5: Fold the Bell Tent Up

A. Fold the tent in half, like a taco, to make it more compact. Make sure the bottom part of the bell tent is clean and dry (remember how damaging dampness can be to a canvas tent!). B. Now fold the tent upon itself once again, so that it is the same width as the tent bag, and you are finished. It is possible that you may need to square off the rounded end of the bell tent in order to do this. Next, wipe and dry the area of the tent that has been exposed to the elements. C. Fold the tent in half, then in half again onto itself (short end to short end) Repeat the wiping and drying process.



Now get back on your road trip!

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Start A Mobile Glamping Business in 2022

Glamping event providers and backyard glamping enterprises began to spring up in the Wes boroughs in the year 2015. Mobile glamping enterprises are in high demand right now, surpassing their supply, making this a fantastic small business opportunity in your local community. We want to assist you in determining whether or not it is the right moment for you to start your own glamping rental business. THE LIT LIST will be published on January 9, 2022. 6 minutes to read

How to Maintain and Clean a Bell Tent

Canvas tents are extremely durable and may last a lifetime if they are properly maintained.

Canvas tents, like keeping a healthy body, may last a lifetime if they are properly cared for and maintained. Here are some ideas to help you clean and care for your bell tent so that you may get the most usage out of it for a long period of time.

Double Bell Wedge Tent 4m

The double bell wedge tent is suitable for traders or, much better, as a Napoleonic tent, and it is available at a fairly reasonable price. Floor space: more than 4m x 2m Weight when packed: 16kg Inclusions that are standard 1 × Temporary shelter Ropes made of cotton Sodcloth. To prevent wind and rain from blowing inunder the tentwall, a material band up to 30cm wide is fastened to the bottom wall and either burried or covered with dirt (sod) and other things. The package also includes a free set of painted poles made of lightweight metal, which is a great deal.

  1. Pinning the bottom of the tent together will require pegs.
  2. The awning will need the use of two more poles.
  3. If you are located somewhere else, please contact us for an updated quote before proceeding with the purchase.
  4. WARNING: When you acquire this tent, you will also receive an accompanying download sheet that will show you how to quickly build poles and makesome pegs.
  5. accompanied by a photograph Andrew Leitch is a writer who lives in the United Kingdom.
  6. An addition provides cover from the sun and plenty of space for storage.
  7. The tent does not have pegs for the sides of the structure.

Double Bell Wedge Tent 4m

At an extremely reasonable price, this double bell wedge tent is ideal for traders or, even better, as a Napoleonic tent. Approximately 4 x 2 meters of floor space 16kg in total when packed. Included as Standard 1. A tarpaulin or similar structure Rigging materials made of cotton Sodcloth. Sod cloth is a textile band up to 30cm wide that is fastened to the lower wall and either burried or has dirt (sod) and other things placed on it to act as a barrier against wind and rain blowing inunder the tentwall.

  • If you use a coupon code, get free shipping, or receive another promotional discount on your order, poles are automatically included as a free gift.
  • The ropes necessitate the attachment of two pegs.
  • Deliveries to key regional regions and east coast cities on the Australian Continent are excluded from the shipping charge.
  • Our tents are constructed of REAL strong durable canvas (14 ozpy, 475 gsm) rather than a synthetic or ripstop fabric.
  • IMPORTANT NOTE: As a result of this information, you will have an easier time preparing your tent for your next event, demonstrating once more that we have the realknowledge to assist our clients.
  • Comment posted on August 18, 2010, 20:35 Exceptional Price.

Good-looking tent with excellent stability. An addition provides cover from the sun and plenty of storage space. This structure, in my opinion, would make an excellent observation pavilion for the tournament itself. Not included are stakes for the tent’s corners and corners of the sides.

Quality medieval double bell wedge tent Perfect For All Events

Concerning the items and suppliers: Shop for the best collection ofmedieval double bell wedge tents on, which are long-lasting, sumptuous, and artistically pleasing enough to make you lift your brows in admiration. All forms of exhibits, outdoor events, and other meetings or parties may be held in this fantastic and spaciousmedieval twin bell wedge tent, which can be set up virtually anywhere. For a variety of applications, these medieval double bell wedge tents are available in several different forms.

  1. The sidewalls of thesemedieval double bell wedge tents are constructed of durable materials like as glass walls, PVC walls, ABS walls, sandwich panel walls, and other similar materials that are capable of withstanding extreme weather conditions without deterioration.
  2. You may select from a huge range ofmedieval double bell wedge tents on, each of which is available in a number of forms and constructions to meet your unique needs.
  3. These goods are also completely customisable, allowing you to create something that is completely unique to you.
  4. It can also be used on water.
  5. These devices are available for purchase as OEMs and have received ISO and CE certification.

Do it Yourself Canvas Tent

The construction of a canvas tent is a fun project to tackle, whether you are interested in historical reenactment, seeking an engaging project for scouting expeditions, or simply searching for something to do in your backyard. The right canvas tent can withstand even the most severe weather conditions if it is constructed properly.


The fabric used in the construction of your canvas tent is the most significant material used in its construction. Marine-grade army duck fabric is a durable, all-weather textile that can withstand years of usage without breaking down. This material should be preshrunk and treated with chemicals that are fireproof, water resistant, and mildew resistant. Along with tents, this fabric is used to make boat sails and canvas boat coverings, which are also made of cotton. Sunforger is a canvas manufacturer from which a large number of replica tent manufacturers source their material.

Use only natural fiber thread when sewing with natural fibers, since synthetic thread can create uneven wear and the synthetic thread may cut the natural fiber material at stress spots.

Heavy-duty metal grommets can be used as fasteners in some cases. Tent poles can be built out either ash or spruce, depending on your preference.

Tent Styles

Before purchasing your fabric, think about the style of tent you want to construct and create a template with the specifications you want before you start cutting your cloth. There are many different tent styles that can be made, including Viking style wedge tents, French bell wedge tent s, medieval pavilions, yurts, wall tents, military triangular shelters (which are still in use as pup tents), Sibly tents, British bell tent, diamond shelter, scouting tents, platform tents, and tipis, among others.

Construction Tips

Tent seams should have flat felled seams to prevent sagging. Because it is a triple-stitched, reinforced seam, this specific seam is most typically found on blue jeans. Using three or more layers of canvas, you will need a heavy-duty sewing machine to stitch through them all. You should treat all of the seams on your tent once it has been erected with a waterproofing material made for canvas cloth. Tent poles can be measured and trimmed to meet the dimensions of a certain tent.

Buy middle aged tent and storage tarpaulin at Thors Schmiede online s

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