How to Get your Climate Spot On – Blog
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How to Get your Climate Spot On
It is not need to be difficult to manage your climate. Here’s all you need to know about the process.
The Ideal Climate
It all depends on what you’re growing, but as a general guideline, you should strive for the following results:
- 24-28 degrees Celsius (during the day with the lights on) or 22-23 degrees Celsius (during the night with the lights off)
- 70 – 85 percent relative humidity (RH) for propagation, 65 – 75 percent relative humidity (veg), 45 – 65 percent relative humidity (flowering)
- CO2 levels should be between 1000 and 1200 parts per million (ppm) for up to 40% quicker growth.
Air Exchange Vs. Closed Loop Rooms
Fresh air is drawn in to replace stale air, which helps to keep your temperature, humidity, and CO2 levels within reasonable limits.
- Your ability to influence outside conditions is limited. It is possible to experience climatic variations. Pests are a more serious concern. If you move a lot of air, it might be rather noisy.
The equipment you’ll require is determined on your setup.
- Fan, filter, and ducting for extraction
- Heater for the winter
- And other accessories.
- Additional spot cooling and air circulation fans (for the summer)
- Air conditioning (for the summer)
- Carbon filter (for odor reduction)
- CO2 equipment Humidifier Dehumidifier
Closed Loop Set Up
Closed loop growth environments are virtually fully shut off from the outside world. There is very little air entering and very little air leaving. However, instead of exchanging air, you continuously treat the air that is already there in your grow chamber. What’s the point? You will have comprehensive climate control (temperature, CO2 levels, humidity, and so on) while keeping pests and diseases out of your home!
- Plants thrive in their optimal climate throughout the year. There are no variations in temperature or humidity. Pests have a difficult time getting in
- CO2 concentrations at their optimum
- Growth has improved, and yields have increased.
There is no requirement for an air exchange system. As an alternative, you can treat the air that is already present in your grow room. You must do the very minimum in terms of cooling, heating, adding CO2, and removing humidity.
- HVAC (air cooling in the summer)
- Heating (in the winter)
- CO2 equipment
- The following items are included: humidifier, carbon filter (for odor elimination), air circulation fans, small extractor kit (for negative pressure filtration, which also serves as a power outage backup)
What you’ll require will be determined by the following factors:
- Your lights are on
- What is the size of your growing space? In addition to the time of year (in the hot months, more air needs to be evacuated)
As a general rule, the greater the number of lights in your home, the more efficient your air exchange system must be. When in doubt, it is always preferable to overspecify than than underspecify.
Extractor fans are used to remove air from your grow chamber. You’ll need one that can remove a sufficient amount of air. To figure out how much air it needs to remove, do the following:
Multiply the length, width, and height of your tent. The answer is determined by how much area is illuminated by your grow lights.
|In an XL BAY6 Tent: 1.2m x 1.2m x 2m = 2.88m 3 2.88m 3is the total area covered by your lights.|
Multiply this by 60 to get the answer. The amount of air you should remove per hour will be determined by this.
|In an XL BAY6 Tent: 2.88m 3x 60 = 172.8m 3 A100mm (4″) RVK100would do the trick!|
Step 3 (optional)
To be more specific, you can do the following:
- Add 20% if you have a warm attic
- Add 20% if you are using a carbon filter
- Subtract 15% if you have a cold basement
- Add 20% if you have extensive ductwork. For air-cooled lights, the reduction is 25-30 percent.
Even if you’re simply pulling a little amount of air, employing passively drawn air through vents will suffice if your needs are modest. If you do require an intake fan, be sure that it draws in less air than it exhausts to avoid overheating. Alternatively, you may wind up overfilling your tent, which will result in unfiltered air leaking through.
Method 1 (easiest)
Use an intake fan that is 25 to 30% less powerful than your extractor fan, and make sure they are both running at the same speed.
If the intake and extractor fans are the same size (which is not advised), the intake fan should be run at a little lower speed than the extractor fan.
- South-facing rooms are often hotter than north-facing ones, therefore you may require a larger extractor fan in this situation. Please keep in mind that your fans should be situated at opposite ends of your grow room so that you don’t remove air that has just been sucked into your grow room. Purchase the larger of two available sizes if you’re torn between them
- Otherwise, operate the smaller fan at a reduced speed. To prevent your tent walls from being drawn into your fan, use Expando Tent Supports.
EC vs. AC Fans
EC fans are more expensive to purchase, but they are so much less expensive to operate that you may recoup the cost of the fan in less than a year. Over the course of five years, you’ll have saved up to £1,380! Fact. See for yourself how much number crunching we performed.
A fan speed controller is required unless you want your fans to operate at maximum capacity all of the time (which is something no one wants).
They adjust the speed of the fans or slow them down in order to maintain the desired temperature. You may select your minimum fan speed to ensure that enough air is removed to keep your CO2 level and humidity levels at a constant level. The type of controller you require is determined by your fan:
- AC fans require an AC controller, whereas EC fans necessitate the use of the same type of EC controller.
To make your selection, there are a handful of different options. Give us a call before you make a purchase so that we can assist you in selecting and installing the appropriate item.
Split Air Cooled Systems:
- Unit that may be used both indoors and outside
- There is no need for water, which might save you a lot of money.
|N oof 600W lights||4||8||12||18||24|
|N oof 1000W lights||3||5||7||10||14|
Water Cooled Systems:
- Water-cooled systems are, in essence, the polar opposite of a radiator in design. An indoor-only unit, which is ideal if you don’t have the space for an outdoor unit.
Using a CommissionedTopClimatewater-cooled unit is recommended. They’ve been put through their paces, tested, and tweaked for plugplay installation.
|Elite 4000||Elite 6000||Elite 10000||Elite 15000|
|N oof 600W lights||6||10||16||25|
|N oof 1000W lights||4||6||10||15|
Which is Cheaper to Run?
The actual question is: How do you manage your finances? If your water cost is predictable, a water-cooled system is a smart choice for your home. If you have a water meter, a split system will save you money.
See them in Action!
In most stores, working closed loop rooms have been set up. Before you go to your neighborhood business, call to make sure it is open.
At the absolute least, you’ll need a carbon filter to get rid of the smell. A carbon filter, and not just any carbon filter, but one that is deep enough to allow all air flowing through it to come in touch with the carbon for between 0.1 and 0.2 seconds. The key is to make sure that your carbon filter and extractor fan are compatible. You may get a comprehensive extraction kit to alleviate some of the stress associated with this. Remember to replace your carbon filter every 6 – 18 months, depending on the brand and type of filter you have.
- Read the article “Stop Odours from Evaporating!” Remove the smells from the grow room.
- This means that you won’t need a heater in your home.
- The heater will only heat when it is necessary; all you have to do is set the temperature you want.
- The best part is that your grow room will constantly be within a few degrees of your desired temperature.
Aim for a CO 2 level of roughly 800ppm (vegetable) or 1200ppm (fruit and vegetable). This will allow for up to 40% greater growth (flowering). If you’re serious about reducing CO2 emissions, you should consider using an LPG generator or releasing Bottled CO2 Gas in a closed loop environment. However, utilizing MyCO2 Bags or TNB The Enhancer Cannisters, you may improve the quality of all grow rooms on a tight budget. Consider reading the’CO 2Generation Tutorial’ if you are considering incorporating CO 2.
MyCO2 Bags or TNB bottles
BothMyCO2 Bags andTNB are available. It is only when you activate the Enhancer Canisters that the CO 2 begins to be released. This implies that no CO2 is wasted during the transportation or storage process. Just make sure you have enough bottles or bags to cover the entire area where you’ll be growing:
- MyCO2Grow:1.2m x 1.2m x 2m area, 800ppm for 180 days
- MyCO2 Bloom:1.2m x 1.2m x 2m area, 1200ppm for 60 days
- TNB The Enhancer:3.65m x 3.65m area, 1200ppm for 2 weeks
- MyCO2 Bloom:1.2m x 1.2m x 2m area, 800ppm for 180 days
- MyCO2 Bloom:1.2m x 2m area
Use a Bottled Gas Generator
Heat, humidity, and CO2 are uniformly dispersed throughout your growth space thanks to the use of air circulation fans. Avoid directing them directly towards plants since this might result in excessive water loss from the leaves, resulting in windburn and other problems. There’s no way to go wrong with aDiffuseAir! They were created to keep severe air streams from causing windburn from entering the building.
They do not take up any floor space, in contrast to pedestal fans. When it comes to spot cooling in difficult-to-reach regions, supplementalclip-on fans are ideal. For as low as £9.95 per item, you may get your hands on one.
Humidifiers And Dehumifiers
During the process of transpiration, plants naturally release moisture into the surrounding air.
If you have an air exchange system
Because your air exchange system removes humid air, you may not need to dehumidify your home. If, on the other hand, you discover that your humidity level is rising too quickly, calculate how much water your plants use in a 24-hour period and dehumidify by that amount. Checking your tank will allow you to determine how much water has been used. It is likely that you will require humidification at some time. It’s especially important during winter or when your body temperature is a concern.
If you have a closed loop set up
You will not be eliminating any of the moisture that your plants have produced. This entails two things: first, it suggests that
- Once the plants have produced enough leaf, it is doubtful that you will require the use of a humidifier. You will almost certainly require a dehumidifier (or an air conditioning system that can deal with humidity)
ALWAYS Use an RO Filter with a Humidifier
Mineral deposits will corrode your reflectors and limit the power of your lamps if you don’t clean them. They’ll also clog up your carbon filters, reducing the amount of extraction you get. As a result, you will have to replace your equipment more frequently. Even worse, the ensuing reduction in light will have a detrimental effect on plant development. More information may be found here. TimA little bit about the author Tim began his career in Dudley, but is now the general manager of Bristol!
GroWell Bristol may be reached at 0117 955 8404.
9 Methods To Lower Temperature In Your Grow Tent (2022)
Maintaining an appropriate growth environment in your grow area is one of the most difficult aspects of growing cannabis indoors, and it may be quite difficult. It’s also the most critical factor to consider. It’s no surprise that I receive a large number of inquiries from farmers seeking assistance in decreasing their grow tent temperatures. If you want to reduce the temperature of your grow tent, there are numerous practical methods you may do. For example, moving your grow tent to a cooler part of your home, switching from an HPS to an LED grow light, and ensuring that your grow tent fan is pushing air out the window rather than into the room where your tent is placed are all good ideas.
Just to be clear, the best temperature range for growing cannabis is between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, or 21 and 27 degrees Celsius.
It is critical to maintain consistent temperatures in your grow tent in order to minimize plant stress.
To begin, I’ll discuss the most practical techniques of decreasing grow tent temperature, and then I’ll discuss the less practical ones:
Method 1: Relocate Your Grow Tent
Consider relocating your grow tent to the most comfortable part of your home. For example, if you have central air conditioning, you might want to consider your basement or a location near some air vents.
You should also think about putting it near windows that are open. Your grow tent will be able to take advantage of cooler seasonal conditions if it is located near open windows. It will also make it much easier for you to run your ducting from inside the tent directly out the window.
Method 2: Route Grow Tent Ducting Out The Window:
You might want to consider relocating your grow tent to the most shady part of your home. As an example, if you have central air conditioning, your basement would be a good choice, as might being near some air vents. Putting it near open windows should also be considered. Your grow tent will be able to take advantage of cooler seasonal conditions if it is located near windows that can be opened. This also makes it simple to run your ducting from inside the tent directly out through the window.
Method 3: Turn on Your Air Conditioner:
Maintain a cool environment in the room where your grow tent is positioned. The most straightforward method of accomplishing this is to open a window during the colder months or to get a portable air conditioner to keep the area cool. Consider putting the portable air conditioner inside the grow tent if that isn’t enough to alleviate the problem. When the inline fan blows out hot air and generates negative air pressure in your grow tent, the air in this chamber is drawn back into your tent, causing the air to be drawn back into your tent.
Keep in mind that if the temperature inside your tent is 85 degrees Fahrenheit and the temperature of the external air being drawn into the tent is only 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the temperature differential will not be sufficient to cool the tent down.
Method 4: Add CO2 to Your Grow Tent
The addition of this simple-to-use CO2 bag to your grow tent will not really reduce the temperature, but it will have the same effect. Cannabis plants are able to survive temperatures that are far higher than normal when exposed to excessive CO2 levels. How much additional heat can cannabis endure when the CO2 level is elevated? A temperature range of 85 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit would be ideal for growing plants. This is in comparison to an usual temperature range of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit in the absence of CO2.
Click here to see whether they are available on Amazon.
Method 5: Make an Ice Box (with ice or dry ice):
This strategy will need a little ingenuity, but it is effective if you are willing to put out the effort. Because dry ice does not require replacement as frequently as wet ice, it will require far less maintenance. Using dry ice to reduce the temperature of a grow tent has the added benefit of creating CO2, which helps plants to survive at greater temperatures than normal (85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit) as a result! What you’ll need is the following:
- When it comes to this strategy, a little imagination is required, but it is effective if you are willing to put in the effort required. Due to the fact that dry ice does not need to be replaced as frequently, it will require significantly less maintenance. Growing plants at higher temperatures (85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit) is made possible by using dry ice to reduce the temperature of the grow tent, which also has the added benefit of creating CO2. You’ll need the following supplies:
How to assemble: This may be as simple as putting your ice in a container or chest and directing an oscillating fan at it to cool it down. To be more imaginative, you may opt to seal the chest and cut a hole on either side of it, placing a fan in one hole and allowing air to escape through the other. A word about dry ice and carbon dioxide: CO2 is present at a concentration of 400 parts per million (ppm) in fresh air. Most gardeners agree that a CO2 concentration of 1,200 to 2,000 parts per million (ppm) is optimal for considerably improved plant yields.
Concentrations more than 2,000 parts per million (ppm) can be harmful.
Due to the fact that CO2 is heavier than air, you should have an oscillating fan operating to circulate the gas around the camp.
When Using Regular Ice:If you don’t want to use dry ice, you might try making salt-ice instead. This may be accomplished by freezing salt water rather than ordinary water. The use of salt allows the ice to remain frozen for a longer period of time.
Method 6: Make Sure Your Inline Fan is Strong Enough:
The inline fan in your grow tent is an excellent initial step in the process of eliminating heat from the tent. By clicking here, you can read my post on how to choose the proper size fan for your grow tent. Generally speaking, your inline fan should be replenishing the air in your grow tent once per minute, according to the rule of thumb. You must also consider the lower fan power caused by bends in the ducting as well as the use of a carbon filter when designing your system. You might want to consider increasing the speed of your inline fan or purchasing a more powerful one if your current one isn’t powerful enough.
Method 7: Switch from HPS / HID Grow Lights to LED Grow Lights:
The inline fan in your grow tent is an excellent initial step in the process of reducing heat from the grow tent environment. By clicking here, you can read my post on how to select the proper size fan for your grow tent. Generally speaking, your inline fan should be replenishing the air in your grow tent once each minute, according to the rule of thumb. You must also consider the lower fan power caused by bends in the ducting as well as the use of a carbon filter when designing the system. You might want to consider increasing the speed of your inline fan or purchasing a more powerful one if your current model isn’t powerful enough.
Method 8: Place Your Grow Light Drivers Outside Your Grow Tent:
The Mars Hydro TS-3000 (4×4 ft) and the TSL-2000 (2×4 ft) versions of LED grow lights, for example, feature replaceable drivers if you decide to make the conversion from HPS to LED grow lights. This is a significant advantage for growers that have difficulty decreasing the temperature of their grow tents.
Method 9: Relocate Hydroponic Equipment Outside Your Grow Tent:
If you’re growing hydroponically, you may be employing pumps, filters, reservoir chillers, or other electrical equipment that may be moved with the use of an extension cable or expanded pipes to accommodate your growth needs. Consider relocating as much of it as possible outside to help lower the warmth inside the grow tent. As you can see, there is no one perfect way for decreasing the temperature of a grow tent. There are several options. You may find one way to be more convenient or effective than another for you.
- The dry ice approach is my personal favourite if the simpler ways don’t work for you.
- While it may not be the simplest approach to use, I believe it is one of the most successful when it comes to raising the temperature of your grow tent environment to a comfortable range.
- Learn how to determine the coverage of grow lights.
The term “climate control” is used in the most literal sense. It is possible to adjust not only the temperature of your grow area, but also the humidity levels, CO2 levels, and flow of air around your grow space using GrowAce. The correct climate control arrangement will allow you to provide your garden with the atmosphere that is most suited to its demands, which will result in a larger and more productive harvest in the long run. If your grow room is starting to feel suffocating, it may be time to consider ventilation for your grow room.
- These may be used in conjunction with any of our duct filters and are designed to work along with ducting to ensure that air flow and filtration are directed exactly where you want them to go—with no air leaks or breaks.
- But don’t worry if your garden is starting to feel a bit chilly; we’ve got just the thing to warm things up a little.
- Even better, with the iPonic 624 Environmental Regulate unit, you don’t even have to be in your garden to control your environment: you can do it all from your phone using an app!
- Trust us when we say that even if your nutrition and light cycles are perfect, they will be worthless if your atmosphere is not conducive to growth.
- Do you have any queries or require assistance?
- Since 2011, we’ve been here to serve you.
- Because we’re the most reputable company in the market, we can provide you the lowest pricing and the most satisfied clients!
- With many warehouses located around the country, your item will be delivered quickly!
The majority of items are dispatched the same day or the following day! Technical Assistance for the Rest of Your Life Whatever the situation, we’re here to assist you! Take advantage of free grow support for the life of your product.
Grow Room Temperatures: Inside & Out
Temperatures in an ideal grow room are more than simply what is displayed on a single thermometer in your growing space. While it’s simple to tell you what the optimal indoor grow temperature is (somewhere between 65°F and the low to mid 80°F range), we know that it’s not only the room temperature that contributes to the yield you desire. We’ll go through the role that temperature plays in your grow room, from the temperature outside your growing area to the temperature of the grow lights inside it, in this section.
The Effect of External Conditions on Internal Temperatures
A common question we receive from growers is, “What impact do external temperatures have on the temperature of my indoor grow room?” It helps to know if you want to grow in a grow tent or whether you want to turn a room in your house into a growing space for your plants before you can answer that question. When Growing in Your Room- The outdoor environment can have a significant impact on the growth of your plants in your room. Summer heat may significantly enhance the temperature of your grow (particularly if you’re using high-intensity discharge (HID) grow lights).
- Winters might make it difficult to maintain consistent temperatures during your plant’s sleep cycle.
- In addition to restricted growth, the extra moisture and humidity caused can lead to the development of mold.
- If you can keep a comfortable temperature in your house or apartment, you will be able to regulate the temperature of a tent with greater ease as well.
- No matter what the application, the temperature outside can (and almost always will) have an impact on your grow.
The temperature at which your growth room is located is known as the ambient temperature. It is influenced by external elements such as the temperature outdoors, as well as interior factors such as the amount of heat (or lack thereof) emitted by your grow light system. The temperature of the air within your garden has a significant impact on the ability of your plants to breathe and absorb nutrients. Temperature and humidity in your grow room are highly correlated, and the temperature and humidity in your grow room have a significant impact on how much your plants sweat, absorb nutrients, and grow in the end.
When it comes to plants, photosynthesis can only be done at specific temperatures.
Your plants are continuously attempting to develop, and when temperatures are out of whack, it makes it harder for the plant to do so successfully.
Make certain that the temperature in your room does not have an impact on the temperature of your water or medium temps. The following are examples of common grow room temperatures (but are not limited to them):
- Plant Clones/Seedlings: 72-82°F
- Vegging Stage: 68-78°F
- Flowering Stage: 68-77°F
- Temperature Drop: 10-15°F
Inaccurate temperature management in the grow chamber might result in unintentional overheating of the canopy of your plants if you’re not paying attention. If the temperature of the canopy is incorrect, your plants will be unable to complete photosynthesis. The temperature at the canopy (leaf) level of your plants is known as canopy temperature; it sounds easy enough, doesn’t it? This makes sense because canopy temperatures should be similar to the ambient temperature in your room, if not identical.
- Plants are quite hardy, so a few degrees outside of their optimal temperature range will not harm them.
- When it is OK to turn on your lights- Plants that are too near to their grow lamps run the risk of overheating the canopy of the grow light.
- When to bring lights closer- If your lights are too far away from your canopy, your canopy may become too chilly, which will contribute to stunted development.
- Of course, factors can affect the outcome of these calculations- Because LED grow lights, for example, do not emit much heat, ambient and canopy temperatures can be lower than they would be in most other situations.
The temperature of the nutrient-richwater you’re feeding your plants as well as the temperature of the soil they grow in- i.e. the temperature of your plants’ grow medium- will be affected by the ambient temperature. It is critical to understand the temperature of your grow media because if it is not at the proper temperature, your plants will have difficulty feeding. Your medium’s temperature should be similar to the temperature of your room, if not slightly lower. Using the example above, if your room is 77 degrees Fahrenheit, your nutrient-rich water or soil should be in the 72-77 degree Fahrenheit range.
Plants’ roots will not be able to absorb nutrients properly if they are exposed to too much cold, regardless of whether they are in soil or not.
When the temperature of a grow medium is too high, it can cause root rot and mold at the root zone in hydro gardens (usually due to swampy conditions near the root zone).
If the temperature at the soil level becomes too high, your roots may be fried. Fried roots are unable to absorb nutrients, and as a result, your plant will begin to die.
Temperatures all work together to produce the output you desire, and if there are contradicting temperatures in your grow room, your plants may suffer as a result of it. If the canopy is too high, it is likely that the soil is too high, and your plants will burn. Your roots might be damaged or your plant could be exhausted if your water is too hot but your canopy is correct. The list of undesirable combinations is limitless. When it comes to right temperatures, there’s always a little wiggle area, so the trick is to pay attention to your plants and make sure you’re giving them the temperatures they like rather than the ones they can handle.
Grow Room Climate Control: Five Steps for Better Yields
We stand behind the quality of our items. That means that if you have any questions or concerns, you can be certain that Quest will be there to assist you. Growers who are just beginning to make the move from a small-scale hobbyist operation to a larger-scale operation are sometimes surprised by how quickly a whole crop may go bad. Alternately, while not nearly as disastrous, some farmers just aren’t aware of how much greater their production could be if they optimized a few of more variables.
The most important piece of advise we can give to producers is to consult with more experienced peers on how to optimize the temperature management in their grow rooms.
However, we’ve spent a significant amount of time working with expert growers.
1. Dial your light setup
When it comes to plant health and indoor grows, light isn’t something growers should disregard, but there is one aspect that shouldn’t be overlooked: most lights generate a lot of heat, so you need take it into mind when planning your temperature management. Everything from lighting to temperature control must be considered, and you will need to plan ahead of time. In spite of the fact that some growers are switching to LED lights, many others are sticking with tried and true metal-halide and HPS (high-pressure sodium) lighting systems, which can generate a lot of heat and raise the temperature of your room above the 20-degree window that most growers strive to keep within.
2. THINK THROUGH TEMPERATURE CONTROL
It’s generally recommended to keep your plants between 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit throughout that 20-degree temperature window, which is warm enough not to freeze them but not too hot not to fry them. Most indoor growers just have to worry about cooling because of the illumination they have available. It is possible that a basic window AC unit will be sufficient for hobbyists or growers who are only cultivating a few plants in their house. Unfortunately, they aren’t particularly effective at what they do.
Window air conditioning equipment do not scale well. When it comes time to scale up your business, you’ll want to look at a system that operates more like what you’d find in a residential environment, such as central air conditioning or heating.
3. PLAN FOR KEEPING AIR MOVING
Maintaining a constant flow of air in your grow room serves two purposes: it aids in mold prevention and it aids in the development of stronger stems and branches on your plants. If you’re unfamiliar with the concept of transpiration, consider the following: Your plants absorb water from their roots, and the water then travels up the stems and leaves of the plants. Rather than disappearing, the water is drained from the leaves through tiny pores in the leaves. The circulation of air within the grow chamber helps to break up the barrier layer of air that would otherwise simply linger around your leaves, making them overly damp and sensitive to mold and fungal growth.
However, if you want to do air exchange and bring outside air into your grow room for any reason – for example, if you live in a dry environment and want exchange to keep humidity levels low – your options will be more complicated.
4. BE PREPARED TO CONTROL HUMIDITY
Humidity management is the most important part of high-performance growth when it comes to climate control. Most people think about humidity management in terms of mold prevention, but another important reason to keep an eye on it is to be able to impact your plants’ transpiration rates. When it comes to humidity measurement, a portable sensor may be sufficient to achieve accuracy of around 5%. A growing number of large-scale grow operations are converting to electronic monitoring systems that incorporate sensors that automatically measure humidity and even take action with fans and dehumidification equipment.
- It appears to be straightforward—just it’s water in the air.
- Overall, humidity control is something that many overlook, particularly when they are scaling up their grow operation since they are unaware of how much moisture each plant absorbs through its own transpiration.
- When you have a modest system, a small, domestic portable dehumidifier that you can buy at the hardware store will suffice, but when you have dozens or hundreds of plants, the method of dealing with the large amount of water becomes much more complicated.
- Therefore, it is recommended that you initially bring in or contact someone who has some prior knowledge in that field to assist you in getting started with your project.
5. THINK ABOUT YOUR CO2 LEVELS
The nutrient CO2, often known as carbon dioxide, is the only one that might be included under the umbrella issue of climate change. Essentially, if a grower is employing high-powered lights (which are typically more powerful than CFLs or fluorescents) and the plants are receiving adequate water and nutrients, they can use more CO2 than the environment can naturally produce for itself. Consequently, while optimizing your growing environment, the CO2 level may actually prove to be a limiting factor in terms of growth.
You may have too much or too little of any vitamin, just like with any other.
Many growers make use of compressed CO2, which is a colorless and odorless gas.
Alternatively, completely automated systems utilizing electronic sensors are available.
This is why it’s critical to plan out the entire growing procedure ahead of time. If CO2 is going to be a limiting issue, you may want to include it into your climate-control system as well as your ventilation system.
BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER
At the end of the day, whether you’ll be able to arrange for your grow room climate control on your own or if you’ll need to hire a professional relies on your degree of expertise at the start of the project. Those that come into expanding with a construction or building experience will frequently have a wealth of information that will be valuable for concerns like as temperature control and facilities management. They are knowledgeable about how to seal and insulate buildings, and they are sometimes the first to recognize when they require the services of a professional.
It is entirely up to you whether or not to contact with a professional regarding your grow room climate control system.
Grow Room Temperature Too High- 8 Cooling Solutions [+ 3 Bonus]
Home»Environment»Grow Room Temperature Too High? Here Are 8 Cooling Solutions to Try 8527Views0 This is too hot in the grow room, and I’m starting to worry that the dead plants are going to stress me out! – “What am I supposed to do now?” — An Unknown Gardener I’m aware that you’ve lately shown concern about this very same issue because you’ve visited this website. Perhaps the temperature in the grow chamber is 85, 90, or even 100 degrees. And if you don’t do anything that is proven to work, all of your efforts in putting up the complete grow system would be for naught.
Every grower has experienced problems with heat in their grow tents at some point.
And I’m going to tell you exactly how to resolve the problem as soon as possible.
To cut a long tale short, you can take immediate action to alleviate the issue.
- In order to keep the grow room cool
- Make a decision that will prevent excessive temperatures from causing damage to your plant’s health.
For both procedures, you must be aware of the number of possible approaches as well as the specifics of how they operate. The subject of today’s discussion will be concluded with this statement: Please continue reading.
High Temperates Kills the Plant. Here is How-
What precisely occurs when the temperature in your growing room is too high? Answer: Temperatures have an effect on a plant’s capacity to photosynthesise, seed germination, and fruit/flower growth. Here’s why: Which, when taken as a whole, leaves you with less and lower-quality produce. To simplify things, here are some fundamentals concerning high temperatures in growth environments: First and foremost, grow lights function as warmers. LED, high-pressure sodium lamp, fluorescent lamp, plasma lamp, and every other type of light generating heater we can think of are all light emitting heaters.
The leaves and roots of plants are immediately affected by the high temperatures seen in grow rooms.
The heat from the leaves is removed through the evaporation of water via the Stomata, which in turn cools the plants.
While water is moving through the Stomata, the guard cells around it are activated by the high temperatures and conditions.
The plant’s root system is likewise put under stress as a result of this situation. As a result, your plants will eventually cease to function due to a lack of photosynthesis. That’s a fairly good growing environment for any plant, don’t you think?
How to Detect ‘Too High’ Temperature of Your Grow Space?
A great grow environment should maintain a constant temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (21 and 26 degrees Celsius). This is what I mean by ‘uniform,’ which means that it should be the same across the contour. When the temperature surrounding the sources (lights) is greater, oscillating fans can be used to circulate the air. That is, however, the usual temperature range for fast-growing annuals in general. A slight increase in temperature may be beneficial as well, as long as you have something to protect the root zone, such as a water chiller.
- Plants either cease to grow or become tall and leggy
- The flower is not forming correctly
- Essential oils are becoming depleted. Fruits that rot before their time
However, it is usually preferable to notice a problem with the temperature and surroundings of your plants before allowing them to wilt. A 3-in-1 moisture, light, and pH meter may be a useful addition to any kit. Here’s one of the most popular from Healthy Wiser. So to be clear, anything above 85°F or 90°Fhigh will be considered, and we will search for a solution throughout the remainder of this piece.
8 Actionable Grow Room Cooling Solutions
We have arrived to the center of the post, which is exactly what you are looking for right now. Here is a list of 7 quick and simple treatments for high grow room temperatures that are both simple and effective:
1 of 7: Boost Up the Air Exchange Rate
In an indoor growing environment, hot air builds quickly. It is possible that you have installed an input and extractor fan in order to remove the heated air. Increase the speed of this fan duet to increase the rate of air exchange in the room. You can manually change the fan speed every now and again, but there are programs available that can do it automatically and with pinpoint accuracy. My favorite is the recently released Titan Controls Kronus 4, which is my personal fave. To get a better and cooler air exchange, one more effective advice is to gather the intake air from the coolest spot that is readily accessible close by.
2 of 7: Have A Low-Strength Nutrient Solution
When the temperature is high, more water is absorbed by the leaves, resulting in a greater demand for water by the root system. As a result, they are compelled to consume additional nutrients. Furthermore, increased nutrient consumption is associated with an increased risk of plant toxicity concerns. This finally leads to their demise, though. In order to prevent this from happening, dilute the nutrient solution by a specific proportion (20 percent in most cases). All that is required is the addition of the determined amount of fresh water.
An air pump and some air stones should be included in the solution.
3 of 7: Enhance Air Flow
The medium via which heat is transferred from heat sources to plants is called air. It follows that improving air circulation throughout the tent’s inside will have a positive impact on reducing its heat-producing effects.
Using an oscillating fan is the most efficient method of doing this task. Place it in such a manner that it can circulate air in nearly every area of the room, particularly the air between the heat source and the plant canopy. I’d like to share with you two of my own recommendations: –
- The VIVOSUN 6′′ Clip-On Fan is the best oscillating fan for grow tents. Hurricane 18″ Wall Mount Fan is the best oscillating fan for a grow room.
4 of 7: Enhance Humidity
Humidity is the most obvious factor to consider when discussing temperature, and it comes in second place. In the same way, vice versa. They have an effect on one another, and you can cope with the increased temperature in a grow area by adjusting the relative humidity in the space. Now, how can you keep your grow tent cool by regulating the humidity in it? If the temperature rises in a curved space, relative humidity drops, according to the findings of a study published on Sciencing. Even if the temperature in your grow room is extremely high, you should be concerned if the relative humidity is also unusually low.
Now, here’s a fun fact: increasing the humidity level will not only prevent the plants from drying out, but it will also cause the plants to chill down.
In addition to increased humidity, there is a fall in temperature, which works to your advantage.
5 of 7: Switch Off or Dim A Few Light Sources
Many of us growers believe that putting the light sources above the plants’ heads will alleviate the temperature issues we’re seeing. However, the reality is that while this may reduce direct heat on the plants by a little amount, it will not reduce the temperature of the overall grow tent. What actually works in practice is to turn off 50% of your light sources for a period of time. If you have two, you may switch one of them off for a short period of time and it will not cause any problems.
It works well with high-pressure sodium lights.
6 of 7: Chill The Nutrients
If you believe that your plants can endure a high temperature under any circumstances, you are mistaken. Almost each grow room plant can endure temperatures between 90 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and even greater temperatures. If you live in a hot climate and are unable to find a rapid way to manage the temperature, but still want to maximize your yield, you should chill the nutrients to a temperature between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. It is necessary to employ a pump that circulates the nutrient solution in order to prevent the temperature of the nutrients from rising again.
7 of 7: Using Air Cooled Hoods
The heat released by light sources and other forms of illumination is the most significant contributor to the increasing temperature in your grow room. So, why don’t you use a reflective hood that is air-cooled? It’s something that can remove up to 50-60 percent of the heat created by grow lights, depending on how efficient it is. There are versions, like as the Magnum XXXL, that do an excellent job of dissipating the heat generated by the light source.
They are completely sealed and can be used in conjunction with duct fittings. If a 6′′ duct pipe is linked to the hooded lamp, the temperature within the grow room will almost probably be reduced significantly.
3 Bonus Tips
I’m confident that implementing a few of the aforementioned suggestions will assist to reduce the excessive temperature or, at the at least, let your plants live in a hot environment. Here are some additional extras to go along with these suggestions.
Run the lights at night
- Despite the fact that we are all aware of this, I stress on it more since it will help to keep the ambient temperature low.
Seal the entire space up
- If you are a grower who lives in a hot environment, this may be even more beneficial to you. Such a grower is more likely to use an air conditioner as well as a carbon dioxide generator to keep the environment cool. It is preferable to utilize a subterranean space since it acts as a natural thermal insulation. Aside: Plants in a grow room can withstand high temperatures and high carbon dioxide levels in the air.
Toughen up Cell Walls of the Plants
- This will aid in the greater survival of plants, as well as the colonization of the root zones of plants, in the long run. A high-quality Silica Supplement for plants is essential in this process of toughening. Currently, I’m finding this one from Botanicare to be really beneficial
Hello, my name is John and I’m here! When I’m not busy working on my own company, you can find me wandering around my indoor plants, playing Call of Duty with my wife and kids, or hanging out with my friends and colleagues. John Terry’s most recent posts are shown below. (See all of them)
Marijuana Grow Room Setup: Optimal Humidity and Temperature
Despite the fact that it is exhilarating to see the benefits of your effort when you begin harvesting, the task is far from finished. Preventing the possibility of your crop getting destroyed or rendered unusable for smoking by properly processing it is important. Proper drying and curing are critical in reducing the possibility of mold infection while also significantly improving the taste of the product when it is smoked.
Beyond the requirement for precise temperature and humidity management during the growth phase, it is also crucial to note that the humidity level maintained during the drying process is critical to the quality of finished product. If you have too much humidity in your drying environment, you may end up with perfectly cultivated cannabis that is moldy. That is something that neither the individual user nor the dispensary purchaser desires. Having moldy cannabis on your hands is one of the most effective ways to tarnish your reputation as a dependable grower of high-quality buds.
Wet Trimming versus Dry Trimming
A less bitter flavor is produced as a consequence of the curing process, which breaks down any residual chlorophyll in the plant. Keep in mind that harsh buds are not high-quality buds. These techniques can extend the shelf-life of a crop, which is particularly significant for a product like cannabis, which does not have the option of adding preservatives to prolong its shelf life.
“Wet trimming” refers to the practice of pruning plants as soon as they are ready. Individual branches should be removed, and superfluous plant matter should be neatly trimmed with sharp scissors or shears. The drying process begins as soon as the plants are removed from the ground. What is instantly noticed is how sticky and wet the buds are because to the high moisture content. While this is a great sign of prospective quality, it is also a breeding ground for toxins and should be avoided. This condition of affairs will almost likely result in the ruination of buds; thus, it is necessary to move soon to initiate a regulated drying process.
As an added bonus, it allows you to gather the “sugar leaves,” which contain lower THC levels and can be stored separately until they are turned into edibles.
Remember that list of states with “high THC; low Cannabinoid level oil” that we discussed earlier? This is the location where the product is manufactured.
This approach is typically used by farmers who have a big volume of plant material and little time to handle it. The process entails chopping off branches and hanging them whole on drying lines to dry. Once the plants have dried, they are trimmed and prepared for processing. The neatness of a wet trim is more difficult to achieve because sugar leaves will curl in toward the buds as they dry, making the job more difficult. Handling dried buds during trimming might result in the loss of strong resin crystals due to the agitation caused by the process.
Drying Room Conditions
Whatever method you use to trim your product, it is critical that the drying chamber be set up in the proper circumstances. You’ll need a cold, dark atmosphere with temperatures ranging from 59 to 71 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity levels at or around 50 percent. Yes, even after the growth process has been done, you must continue to be careful with temperature and humidity conditions.
The Drying Process
If you want to utilize the wet trimming approach, you will need to spread them out across a big surface area in order to get the desired results. Because aeration is critical, you should avoid placing the flowers on a flat surface such as cardboard or newspaper, as the buds may dry unevenly on these surfaces. The use of wire mesh or netted drying racks is more advantageous. This allows circulation to reach all corners of the room and reduces the likelihood of wet air pockets forming. Make sure to give yourself enough space to spread your crop out evenly, with a tiny bit of space between buds, in order to get the best possible outcomes.
Excessive hurrying through the process and exposing your crop to high temperatures will almost surely result in worse quality, poorer flavor, and even the possibility of a “bad and unpleasant high.” Good luck explaining it to your investors or to a discerning dispensary that has a slew of producers fighting for shelf space in their establishment.
- Temperature and humidity levels are measured with a thermo hygrometer. Air conditioner
- Portable heater
- Thermo hygrometer
Ensure that you inspect your crop on a regular basis, generally every three to seven days. With each inspection, they will get considerably drier and more comfortable. It will be clear that your buds have been adequately cured when they break easily in your hands and show no symptoms of stringiness or wilting. If you see any bendiness when you twist gently, this indicates that there is still water present and that they are not yet ready to be transferred to jars.