How To Build A Light Tent

How to Make An Inexpensive Light Tent – DIY

The following instruction on how to build an Inexpensive Light Tent was submitted by Jeffrey Bail and is reprinted with permission. Jeffrey’s Flickr account may be found here. Note: While this is a fantastic DIY method that hundreds of our users have used, Amazon has a large selection of affordable Light Tents that will provide you with excellent results. How do you go about creating a fantastic DIY light box? It’s all right here in this article! You know, if you’re anything like me, you don’t want to spend money on anything if you can do it yourself and get the same results for less money and effort.

In its simplest form, it was a folding white cloth box with a hole in the front and three lights, which were used in photographic studios for photographing tiny items (like the shot of the chocolate reindeer to the left).

I’m not going to spend $100 on some cloth and three lights when the material is far less expensive.

Materials Needed:

First, a box– It may be any size you choose, so long as it can hold enough fuel to burn! It should be as square as possible, in my opinion. Boxes may be found for free almost anyplace. I received mine from work, which they were about to toss away anyhow. Boxes can also be found in the rear of strip malls, grocery stores, appliance stores, and pretty much any other establishment that manufactures or sells goods. The greater the thickness! (Free) 2.) Fabric’ This can be of any sort, once again.

1. Purchase enough to completely cover the box.
2. If you’re on a tight budget and happen to have some white undershirts lying around, go for it.
3. If you plan to utilize numerous shirts, be certain that the colors are complementary otherwise your final product may not come out as you had hoped.
4. The reason for this is that you may wish to experiment with different textiles.
5. ($1.00 per roll in the United States) 4.) Glue’ To adhere the lining to the box, you can use a “Glue Stick” ($1.00 US each Stick) or spray adhesive ($5.00 US per Can) to adhere the lining.
6. 5.) White Bristol board (.50 a sheet X2).
7. In drawing and art, Bristol board is a heavyweight paper (.006′′ thick) that is used as a drawing surface.

You may also choose multiple colors for your background if you like a different look.

The lighting in this box, in my opinion, is the most significant component.

I went to my local hardware shop and purchased a few “Daylight” Bulbs to experiment with.

In order to save money, I purchased “n:vision” 90-watt equivalent compact fluorescent lights ($7.00 US).

Also, consider recommending a lighting fixture.

If you don’t have one, I recommend investing in a “Clamp On Work Light.” There were just two varieties available at my local home depot.

Tape ruler, ruler or any straight edge, scissors and knife are some of the other tools you’ll need. Now that you have the materials, I’ll walk you through the process of building a light tent step by step. Then you’ll be able to capture some excellent, clean, and crisp product photographs.

Step By Step Process:

A) Take your box and, using a tape ruler and a pen, measure in 2 inches from the side of the box, marking various spots on the box. When you are finished, you will be able to see your border. Connect the points with your straight edge to create a lovely looking square/rectangle in the centre of the box with a 2′′ border around it when you are finished. You may leave the top and bottom of the box alone because you will not be marking them. B) Cut out the shapes you’ve drawn in the boxes. That should be repeated on the sides of the box where the boxes have been drawn.

• BE SURE TO LEAVE THE BOTTOM UNALTERED!
• Then, using your scissors, cut off 16 strips from the fabric.
• Make certain that the side with the marker is towards the cardboard so that it cannot be seen.
• In the box, insert the long piece of Bristol board until the piece curls downward to the bottom.
• Remove any excess paper that is protruding from the top of the container.
• Then cut a large piece of paper so that it will cover the top of the box completely.
• After that, tape the top piece in place.

You only have to spark the cigarette lighter at the top of the box to begin taking pictures.

If you’re having trouble with shadows, I recommend illuminating the other sides of the box as well.

Photoshop might also be a useful tool in some situations!

I also increase the brightness by adjusting the values.

An example of how the Light box works Another outcome of the above-mentioned light box

How to make a DIY light box: conclusion

Now you know what I’m talking about! As you should now be aware, building a beautiful light box is a rather simple process. So go to work on your lightbox. And then put it to the test on some interesting items.

(And be sure to share your findings in the comments!) Did you find this tutorial useful? Get additional information every week by subscribing to our free email newsletter. Also out our otherDIY Flash and Lighting Hacks for Digital Photographers for more inspiration.

DIY PVC Light Tent

If you’re not a blogger, you’re probably not going to give a damn about this little effort, but who knows, you could be interested. Perhaps you want to sell items you produce on Etsy or establish a YouTube channel, or perhaps you just want to snap images of small-ish objects. If you fall into any of these categories, you’ll be more than happy to learn how to create your very own DIY PVC light tent from scratch. Now, for quite some time, I’ve been having difficulties with my images, and I couldn’t exactly explain why.

• I can’t tell you how many times I’d have Rob standing behind me telling me to “increase the saturation” or “look into the exposure” while I was shooting.
• I had a friggin HAD IT moment one day.
• EVERYTHING.
• I started by resetting my camera to its factory settings and then reconfiguring the photo type and all of that other fun stuff.
• I’d been wanting to create a lightbox out of PVC for a long time, but I just couldn’t find the time to accomplish it.
• The colors were horribly off in both images and videos, and I spent a ridiculous amount of time in front of the computer attempting in vain to adjust them for the worst.
• The existing light tent I was using was excellent, but the size was completely inappropriate for my work from the start.
• After weighing all of the advantages and disadvantages of starting over from the beginning, I drew out my ideas and requested Mr.
• My lightbox developed and evolved over the course of roughly a week of use, culminating in the configuration and approach that I am presently utilizing and am really pleased with.
• I utilized the following resources for my project:

• 3/4′′ PVC pipe
• PVC pipe fittings (see below)
• White rip stop nylon
• White Duck Tape
• Adhesive Velcro
• Wood scrap + 1.5′′ screws
• 3/4′′ PVC pipe fittings (see below)
• 32.8 feet of LED strip lights with connections and a power source
• Four clamp lights (mine are 8.5 inches in diameter)

Three different types of fittings will be required for the construction of your tent.

There are three types of 90 degree elbows: the 90 degree side elbow, the 90 degree elbow, and the 90 degree tee. You will need the following materials to create my identical design:

• You’ll need three different kinds of fittings to put up your tent. There are three types of 90-degree elbows: the side elbow, the elbow, and the tee. You will require the following materials to complete my precise design.

When purchasing these fittings, look for ones that have every single hole be a slide on fit. This means that the inside will be nice and smooth and that you will be able to just slip the piece over the end of a piece of PVC pipe. However, because of the way this project has been designed, the second option, which is termed FPT and is threaded on the inside, will not be suitable. In addition, you will want three – ten foot pieces of 3/4-inch PVC pipe. There will be two different thicknesses available, each with a corresponding price difference.

Listed below is the cut list for a box that is the same size as mine, with finishing measurements of 37.5 inches wide by 23.5 inches tall by 22 inches deep.

• 1 – 36′′ piece
• 10 – 22′′ parts
• 4 – 12.5′′ pieces
• 2 – 7.5′′ pieces
• 1 – 36′′ piece

The drawing (which was done in my microwavable notebook, y’all!) corresponds to the cut list and fittings required for a box that is the same size as mine (37.5′′ wide x 23.5′′ tall x 23.5′′ deep, to be exact). If you’re building a box to your own specifications, keep in mind that the PVC fittings used to construct the box will increase the overall size of the box. In the case of my box, the maximum depth allowed is 24 inches (for example). If I cut my PVC pipe to exactly 24 inches in length, it would end up being too large when you include in the connections that are 1.75 inches on either side of the PVC tubing (I know because I did this at first and had to trim up a bunch of PVC).

1. If you cut your pipe to 24 inches in length, the length of the linked section with fittings added to it will be 25.5 inches, which is an excessively long length.
2. This will ensure that when you add the fittings to either end, you will have the right 24-inch dimension.
3. The side outlet elbow fittings are indicated by circles on the corners; elbows are indicated by stars, and tees are indicated by hearts.
4. Using a fine-tooth hand saw, cut your pipe lengths (I used a fine-tooth hand saw I picked up for about $7 at Walmart), and then attach your pipe pieces together as shown in the diagram.
5. As a reminder, this is my “first draft” without my camera perch in the middle of the top.If you want a camera perch like mine, cut a piece of scrap wood to fit in between the middle two bars at the top of the table.
6. Taking the time to pre-drill the holes through the PVC can be really beneficial.
7. Despite the fact that my workplace has four windows, it receives very little natural light.

For example, when I put this outfit together in January, it was mild enough outdoors that I could wear a short-sleeved blouse and knit capris underneath.

I used cool white LED strip lights with a sticky back to illuminate the frame due to the lack of natural light in the space.

One power supply was supposed to be able to power two strands of LED strip lights, and it almost worked, but I ended up purchasing a second power supply to get everything up and running properly.

LED strip lights, on the other hand, were not my original concept.

A PVC frame is also included in an article she wrote on getting set up with video equipment over on her website.

Okay, now my frame is complete, and I’ve started using solely cool white LED strip lights to illuminate it at this point, with none of the light being diffused.

After all was said and done, the lights were too chilly and threw a strange blue hue on the photographs shot within the box.

This setup, on the other hand, resulted in some spectacular overhead video.

Because rip stop nylon is a slippery fabric, and because I am not skilled enough with a sewing machine to retain slippery materials with straight seams, I had to devise a new method of finishing the garment.

The panels were manufactured for both sides, and I attached them to the PVC frame to ensure that they were nice and taut.

In addition, with diffused light coming from the sides, the light coming from above appeared to be quite glaring and needed to be addressed immediately.

I made a top panel, which I completed with duct tape once more, but I fastened it to the frame with sticky back Velcro rather than tape so that I could easily remove it if required.

When I’m filming video, I set my phone on top of the wooden panel, with the camera’s lens gazing through a hole I’ve bored in the panel’s surface.

This mount is really intended for security cameras, and it provides a reasonable degree of flexibility in terms of the angle at which you can position your camera.

It is possible to use this attachment to shoot with the camera at an angle or looking straight down.

), I’m sticking with it.

With colder white cloth and lighting, I had to warm things up in order to achieve a better, cleaner white in my images that did not have a noticeable blue tint.

One on each side of the frame and two at the top of the frame make up the set.

After becoming fed up with wasting reams of white paper, I acquired a 2’x4′ piece of white formica to serve as a base for my frame.

Simply sliding one out and on top of the other is all that is required depending on which one I require.

In order to achieve a proper white balance in my photographs, I let the lights to fully warm up for at least 20 minutes (this took me at least a week to figure out:).

In order to get the proper white balance setting for my camera, I use a white balance card set and take a few test images that I check on a computer monitor before I really get started on any project.

Every time I want to test my camera settings, I take a picture of my hand. It’s in those 2047 lines that I explain how I created my own DIY light tent out of PVC tubing, and you can do it, too!

Foldable DIY Photography Light Tent

It is highly useful in photography, especially when shooting product pictures, close-ups, or any other situation when you need a steady white (or even colorful) backdrop with even lighting. This article will walk you through the basic process of building your own DIY Photography Light Tent, and as an added bonus, this version will fold flat for convenient storage when not in use.

Supplies for Your DIY Light Tent

When it comes to making your own light tent, you only need a few basic things, many of which you may already have around the house. The most crucial item you’ll need is a solid cardboard box that’s at least 12 inches square, but anything a little larger will work much better for this project. An old shipping box measuring 10 inches by 12 inches by 18 inches that I rescued from the recycling bin was utilized for this project. Tissue paper, a roll of packaging tape, scissors, and an x-acto or utility knife are among the last things you’ll need.

However, duct tape is OK, but clear shipping tape is preferred because there is no concern about the tape obscuring any of the light that will be reflected off of your finished product.

Summary of the supply:

• Cardboard box with a minimum square dimension of 12 inches tissue paper (2-3 sheets, more for larger boxes)
• Shipping tape (clear or colored)
• Tools: scissors, X-acto or utility knife, etc. a sheet of poster board in white

Minimum 12-inch-square cardboard box is needed. tissue paper (2-3 sheets, more for larger boxes); packaging tape in a clear plastic bag. Cutting scissors; a utility knife or an X-acto blade white poster board (a sheet of this)

• Cut-out mat
• Straight-edge ruler with a clear edge
• Pencil or marker for laying out lines
• 2 tiny binder clips
• 2 movable light stands with lights
• 2 small binder clips

Building the Light Tent

Construction of the light tent should take you less than half an hour from start to finish, if you follow the instructions carefully. (Mine took substantially longer since I had to stop at every step to snap these photographs.) I was finished in less than an hour, even with this setback). Choose whether or not you want to utilize the flaps on the ‘top’ of the box to increase the box’s overall depth as the very first stage. Because my box was only 10 inches deep, I elected to tape the flaps together on both the inside and exterior of the box, as indicated in the photo.

1. If you’re using a deeper box, you may want to simply cut the flaps off instead.
2. In order to hold the tape securely without any tape showing, you may wish to lengthen the length to an inch and a half in order to enhance the stability.
3. I used a self-healing craft cutting mat for this stage to protect the underside of the box and a transparent ruler to guide the knife throughout the cutting process itself.
4. This is the stage at which you may lift the box and have a look inside.
5. Keep the bottom and rear of the light tent untied for the time being if you want to be able to simply re-flatten the tent for storing purposes.
6. Cut two tiny openings out of the top of your light tent along the rear side, one at each corner, with an x-acto or a utility knife, as shown.
7. After that, you will be able to utilize these clips to hold up your poster board backgrounds with the utmost of ease and efficiency.

Continue reading; this will make more sense later when you get the opportunity to see them in action).

On both edges, cut the tissue paper so that it is about a half-inch shorter than the actual box.

When assembling the rear of the light tent (which was once the bottom of the box), you may use simply the bottom flap of the tape to hold it together, as indicated in the illustration.

Tissue paper should be wrapped around the two sides and the top of the box.

(I also recommend putting a large piece of tape inside to keep it in place.) Congratulations!

Making the background for your seamless backdrop is the final stage in the process.

Slide it up inside the box until it reaches the top, then use the two binder clips to fasten it to the box.

You have the option of trimming the board at this point to fit the dimensions of the box (and attaching it at the bottom with two extra binder clips), or you can keep it extending from the box.

Simply cut lightly through the tape keeping the rear of the box together when you are through using it, and then open and lay it closed in the manner seen in this illustration.

The tape will be flexible enough to allow it to be folded without damaging itself. You may now simply keep it somewhere out of the way, such as beneath a bed or behind a book shelf.

Lighting Your Light Tent

During the day, you may utilize your light tent to filter incoming sunlight and reduce harsh shadows from the scene. Simply set up your light tent in a well-lit area near a window, with the back of the tent facing the window and both sides evenly lighted, with the back of the tent facing the window. It is possible to place your camera directly on the table top or use a tripod to keep it stable, depending on the angle that you like. If you are using shiny poster board, this configuration will allow you to get photos that are uniformly illuminated, and the light coming through the top panel may even produce an attractive reflection.

Nail polish photographed using the set up above exactly as shown.

An alternate method of lighting your light tent is to use two lights, one on either side of the box, which will balance each other out and produce even illumination throughout the tent. It’s important to pay attention to the type of light bulb you’re using because many bulbs are meant to provide a “warm glow” to our indoor lighting, but this warm glow might convert into a yellowish hue in your photographs (as seen above). If you carefully examine the packaging of your light bulbs, you should be able to determine the color temperature (measured in K for Kelvins) of the light source.

(For example, the daylight white balance setting corresponds to 5400K, whereas the fluorescent white balance setting corresponds to 3800K, and so on.) Because RAW files are uncompressed, you will be able to modify the white balance in post-processing.

Example of the same shot, adjusting the white balance from the RAW file. Originally shot using compact fluorescent bulbs.

DIY Light Tent Summary

In order to take high-quality images of little items and objects, a light tent is a very important equipment to have on hand. Using it for product photography for sale or instructive pictures for a blog or web site is particularly beneficial because the images are clean and clear. If you want your works to appear their best, a light box is a good investment. Using the information presented in this page, you may construct your own foldable light tent out of common household materials. How to Use a Light Tent for Product Photography (with more thorough guidance and how-to), a Face-Off: DIY Light Tent vs.

Have you ever constructed your own light tent?

Do you want even more fantastic suggestions?

For more information on the Square Perfect Light Tent kit, see the Product Review of the Square Perfect Light Tent.

Improve Your Photography Skills by Learning How to Use Your DSLR is now available for purchase on Amazon. Using practical instruction on the technical and artistic sides of DSLR photography, you will be able to get the most out of your camera and start capturing gorgeous photographs right away.

Super Simple Light Tent

Following the publication of the PVC light tent on the MAKE blog, I was motivated to complete this project. With the help of a cardboard box and some white material (Tyvek), you may take decent shots of things such as bottles, watches, jewelry, small objects and other small accessories. There is a great deal of space for development, but for the sake of 15 minutes, I think you will agree that it is rather good:)

Step 1: Select Materials

The first thing you should do is locate a suitable container. The box I used was part of a resin plastic shelf that I had lying around. The overall measurements are approximately 16″ x 15″ x 15.” This size has handled the most of the items I’ve placed in it, but I think something a little broader would be more convenient to utilize. Masking tape or other thick tape was utilized as a construction material (Duct, packing, etc) – An X-Acto knife (optional). Measure with a ruler and use a glue stick to attach semi transparent white material (Tyvek, White suiting/Ripstop nylon, bed linens, and so on).

Step 2: Cut the Box

1) Make sure the box is completely flat. Use the ruler to add a 1″ to 1-1/2″ border to all four sides of the box (top, bottom and both sides of the box on the left and right) – Essentially, you want to cut a hole in the box on all four sides. Make sure to include a line on either side of the middle of the box, so that it may rest flat:) 3) Cut out the four panels of the box with an x-acto knife, following the lines drawn on the paper. If anything in the preceding paragraph is unclear, please see the photos below.

Step 3: Assemble the Skeleton

1) Remove the box from the shelf and shut the bottom of the box. 2) Tape the seams on the outside and inside of the house. In step three, the bottom of the box will function as a platform for you to place your goods on.

Step 4: Wrap the Box

To begin, wrap the box with the semi-transparent material you choose so that it covers three of the four sides completely. 2) I used Tyvek that was intended for sign printing and affixed it with a glue stick.

Step 5: Add Continous Background

Part of the enchantment of the light tent is that it creates a continuous background for your photographs, which is part of the wonder of photography. In order to do this, we add a piece of bristol board that has been trimmed to suit the box. 1) As a general guideline, use the depth of the box plus the height of the box as measurements. 2) Cut out a piece of bristol board that is the same size as the one shown in step 1. 3) This offers a lovely white platform against which to photograph your subjects.

3 ) Insert the bristol board inside the box such that the edge of the bristol board is positioned against the front of the box and the card board is allowed to curve like a wave, half-pipe, or whatever shape you want (hopefully:).

Step 6: Add Light and Enjoy

You are now ready to photograph the box once it has been wrapped and the continuous backdrop has been set up. 2) For the apple photo at the beginning of this tutorial, I utilized a desk lamp as well as a pair of Ott lamps (13watts) for illumination. 3) In order to get better/different outcomes, I am moving to the basic clamp type fixture that was previously used in the PVC light tent, which will employ 100 watt bulbs instead. In the fourth step, experiment with the light placement and filtering the light that shines through the top of the box using various semi-transparent materials such as nylon or other similar materials.

*** NOTE:At this point (or maybe earlier), you can and should cover the interior of the box with white paint as well, at the very least the frame of the box.

As an alternative, you may move the white material from the outside to the interior. Because it was pointed out on DPReview.com (message=17593322) that there is a dark reflection in the photographs taken with this box, I thought I’d bring it up here. I’m hoping that will take care of the problem:)

Step 7: End Result

You are now ready to photograph the box once it has been wrapped and the continuous backdrop has been set up. 1) 2) For the apple photo at the beginning of this tutorial, I used a desk lamp and a pair of Ott lamps (13watts). 3 ) In order to get better/different outcomes, I’m moving to the basic clamp type fixture that was previously used in the PVC light tent, which will utilize 100 watt bulbs. Experiment with lighting placement and diffusing light that shines through a semi-transparent material such as nylon, to see what works best for you.

*** AT THIS POINT (or maybe earlier), you can and should cover the interior of the box with white as well, at the very least its frame, if you choose.

Because it was pointed out on DPReview.com (message=17593322) that there is a dark reflection in the photographs taken with this box, I thought I’d bring it to your attention.

Be the First to Share

1) With the box wrapped and the continuous background in place, you are ready to begin taking photographs. 2) For the apple photo at the beginning of this tutorial, I utilized a desk lamp as well as a pair of Ott lamps (13watts). 3) In order to get better/different outcomes, I am moving to the basic clamp type fixture that was previously used in the PVC light tent, which will employ 100 watt bulbs. Experiment with lighting placement and filtering light that shines through a semi-transparent material, such as nylon, to see what works best.

*** AT THIS POINT (or maybe earlier), you can and should cover the interior of the box with white as well, at the very least its frame.

Because it was pointed out on DPReview.com (message=17593322) that there is a dark reflection in the photographs taken with this box, I thought I’d bring it up.

Know your Goals

1) Now that you have the box wrapped and the continuous background in place, you are ready to shoot some shots. 2) For the apple photo at the beginning of this tutorial, I utilized a desk lamp as well as a pair of Ott lamps (13watt). 3) In order to achieve better/different outcomes, I’m moving to the basic clamp type fixture that I used in the PVC light tent, which uses 100 watt bulbs. 4) Experiment with light placement and filtering the light that shines through the top of the box with various semitransparent materials, such as nylon, to see what works best.

*** NOTE:At this point (or maybe earlier), you can and should cover the interior of the box with white as well, at the very least the frame.

Alternatively, you might switch the white material from the outside to the interior. I bring this up since it was pointed out on DPReview.com (message=17593322) that there is a dark reflection in the photographs taken with this box. I’m hoping that will solve the problem:)

Take your Camera Camping

Our primary purpose in writing this post is to demonstrate how you can make your shiny goods appear fantastic without having to hire a professional photographer or take out a small business loan to do so. Although you could just place the object on your desk and take a picture, as we did for the first image in Figure 1, this method is fraught with difficulties. Our item is poorly represented by the photograph due to the use of a flash, the use of mixed illumination from fluorescent overhead lights, a distracting background, and strange shadows.

• More information is available below the jump!
• Members who are free or Premium will see less advertisements!
• Figure 1 shows a diagram of a compass.
• If we adjust our shooting technique, it shouldn’t be difficult to make this shot better.
• Alight tent is an enclosed space constructed of a transparent material that emits uniform, diffused light throughout the space.
• The hard designs make use of a variety of materials to disperse and reflect light, including cardboard boxes, translucent plastic sheets, white foam, and other similar materials.
• Small light tent setups are available for purchase from professional camera supply firms, and they perform well.
• When shooting goods such as jewelry, the most difficult difficulty is reducing reflections; thus, creating your own setup allows you to respond more effectively to the subtleties of your subject.
• A light tent may be constructed in a variety of configurations, which we will demonstrate in the following section of this article.

The Fast-and-Cheap Method

Nothing more than your camera, some tape, and a handful of face tissues are required for the first light tent setup we’ll put together. Placing your object on a white piece of paper will offer a neutral backdrop and help to reduce reflections. Set your camera up on a tripod to limit camera movement, and then set your object on the white sheet of paper to create a neutral background and help to reduce reflections. In the next step, place your camera over the object and wrap tissue around the lens to create a tent over the object, as illustrated in Figure 2.

Because it creates a basic, seamless habitat that diffuses light properly while costing pennies to construct, this simple “soft” light tent works very well for little things.

This might result in fuzzy photographs when taken with digital cameras that do not include a macro lens.

The thicker cloth aids in evenly diffusing the light, while the larger size allows for larger items and better adaptability in the setting.

Figure 2: You may quickly construct a light tent out of a few face tissues and some tape. Diffusing the light and altering the backdrop of our photo has resulted in a more pleasing image. A more robust light tent, on the other hand, may do even greater miracles.

A More-Flexible Setup

After you’ve set up your light tent, you’ll most likely be able to use it for many years to come, so why not take your time and do it well the first time? The framework of this next light tent is provided by a cardboard box, and the diffusing agent is comprised of a variety of materials. The light tent in Figure 4 is large enough to accommodate larger items and can be simply adjusted to fulfill the requirements of a variety of different pictures. This form of light tent requires some creativity and improvisation because it may be constructed from a variety of different household items, such as books or stuffed animals.

1. The holes were then covered with white pillowcases that were sealed with duct tape.
2. In addition to creating a seamless background, this guarantees that any reflections from the interior of the box are completely white as well.
3. The entire operation took around 20 minutes, and we now have a multipurpose light tent that can be used for a variety of activities.
4. Figure 4: The essential components of this adaptable light tent are a cardboard box, a pillowcase, and a white rubbish bag in plain sight.

Keep your Eyes Open

Almost anything that is transparent may be used to create a light tent for a party. Look for possibilities to use other things as fast light tents when you are out and about. The paint can liner illustrated in Figure 6 is an example of something we discovered at our local hardware shop. This product is ideal for use as a light tent since the semi-transparent material diffuses light while the curved top produces an aesthetically pleasing ambience. Furthermore, it is long-lasting and should be accessible for a number of sessions.

Figure 6: This translucent paint can liner was used to create a one-of-a-kind light tent.

Figure 7:

Lighting your Object

Once your light tent has been constructed, you may concentrate on providing appropriate illumination for your object of interest. Our attempt to keep costs down by doing things yourself will continue with the use of natural light rather than studio lighting. They are often constructed of tungsten or quartz and provide a brilliant, well-balanced light that is quite expensive to purchase. These lights, on the other hand, would be far too bright for our installations, since the 500-watt infernos would be overwhelmed by the modest size of our things.

1. Note:Many photographers swear by the natural lighting provided by a bright, overcast day, and for good reason.
2. Our lights are held in place by simple clamp reflectors, which we purchased for $5 apiece from the local hardware shop.
3. Using only one light would result in an excessive amount of contrast on one side of the item and an uneven distribution of lighting.
4. We’ve also opted to raise one of our lights higher than the other in order to alter the angle of the incoming light and create soft shadows in the process.

Figure 8: We utilized low-cost clip reflectors to focus our light toward the light tent, which worked well. It should be noted that they have been set at different levels in order to modify the light angles.

Why not use the flash?

In order to illuminate a big area equally, the flash on your digital camera is designed to be powerful. When dealing with close-up photography, the brilliant burst from the flash will overpower your subject, resulting in hotspots and reflections on the surface of the item. Furthermore, including a second light source in your photo might have a negative impact on the color balance of your image. The best course of action is to switch off your flash and rely on external illumination instead.

Balancing the white

One advantage of photographing these artifacts digitally is that you have the ability to modify the white balance on your camera to your liking. The color cast produced by each form of light is different; thus, you need alter your camera’s settings to match the type of light you’re utilizing. Avoid utilizing fluorescent illumination, on the other hand, because it has a tendency to convert metal a bluish green color. It’s true that, because all of your photos are digital, you can always import them into an image-editing tool and fix any color casts after the fact, but it’s ideal to make this correction while you’re shooting if at all feasible.

Setting up your Camera

Now that your light tent and lighting fixtures are in place, you can focus on setting up your camera to get the finest possible photo. The first thing you need to figure out is what the focal range of your camera is. You’re going to want to fill the frame with your subject, so come as near as you possibly can without risking fuzzy pictures in your photograph. If necessary, you can visually zoom in on the item; however, digital zoom should be avoided because it reduces the quality of the image.

• Check with the manufacturer to determine if the lens is compatible with a macro lens attachment that you may purchase separately.
• It has already been noted that a tripod is recommended for taking stable pictures with your camera.
• Especially at close range, even the tiniest vibration may be quite perceptible.
• In general, you’ll want to shoot with the greatest f-stop you can find, since this will result in a narrower aperture and a greater depth of focus than using a smaller one.
• You may also want to bracket your images by +/- 1.0 EV in order to have a variety of shots to choose from when editing.

The view from the rear panel will provide you with the most exact depiction of what the image sensor is going to capture, as well as a good indication of whether or not the item is in focus, whether or not the colors are true, and whether or not reflections are present.

Preparing the Object

It is important that your things are clean and free of fingerprints before photographing them. Handle them only if absolutely essential while wearing gloves to reduce the likelihood of smudges. For objects that are highly reflective, you might want to consider applying a dulling spray to lessen the amount of reflection you get. A simple and inexpensive method of achieving the similar effect is to place your thing in the freezer for a few minutes. When you remove it, a little layer of condensation accumulates on the surface, which somewhat dulls the appearance of the surface.

• When composing your photo, take into consideration the color and texture of the subject.
• Consider that a white gold and diamond ring will likely seem better against a gray backdrop than against a white background, since the highlights will be more visible and the reflections will be slightly deeper against a gray background.
• The presence of bad shadows detracts from your item and causes hard edges, which makes your image appear flat.
• Get it off the ground as soon as possible to give your thing the most amount of dimension feasible.

Shooting your Object

Once you’ve put everything together, you can start shooting. Because you’re shooting digitally, you should capture as many shots as you can. Always remember that it is always easier to delete an unwanted image afterwards rather than having to re-set the photo. While you should fill your frame with the item, you should also include any shadows thrown by the object. Make every effort to shoot at the greatest resolution feasible, even if the end destination for these photographs is the Internet.

Experiment with different lighting and camera angles to see what works best for you.

Keep in mind, however, that your lens may also generate a reflection on your subject, so keep a watch out for any adverse manifestations while using your lens.

Our favorite photograph, which can be seen in Figure 1 and below, was taken with the lampshade light tent, which was a complete surprise to us.

Shooting tiny, reflective items doesn’t have to be difficult if you put in the effort to set up a favorable lighting arrangement that reduces reflections and allows your subject to shine through. From the book “Exploring Digital Photography,” this narrative is adapted (Element K Journals).

Photo hacks: build a light tent for product photography with a cardboard box

(Photo courtesy of a digital camera.) For still-life or close-up photography, the usual set-up recommends that the camera should be as near to the subject as possible. While this enables the camera sensor to record every little detail, getting the illumination just perfect at close range may be a great challenge for many photographers. Lighting a subject with direct light, for example, might result in burnt-out highlights and harsh shadows, as well as other effects. Light diffusion is the most straightforward technique for avoiding these lighting difficulties.

Numerous commercially available versions are now on the market (such as the Orangemonkie Foldio3, and the Lastolite ePhotomaker).

The most effective camera for product photography The supplies required are minimal: a cardboard box, some white cloth, and an angle-poise bulb are all that are required.

So, now that you have everything set, here’s how to construct your very own light tent.

1: Cut out the box

A square box is preferable, but don’t be concerned about the form as long as you can fit everything you want to capture inside it without sacrificing quality. Remove the top flaps from the box and make three huge holes on the sides of it. (Photo courtesy of a digital camera.)

2: Add an infinity curve

We now require a clean area on which to place our topic. A smooth sweep may be achieved by attaching white card to the inside of the box from the inner front to the inner top, creating an infinite curve. (Photo courtesy of a digital camera.)

3: Create the diffusion panels

Make three pieces of fabric that are just a little bit larger than the holes you made in the box. Place the first panel over the top of the box and tape it in place. Remove any wrinkles from the cloth by pressing it with a hot iron. (Photo courtesy of a digital camera.)

4: Add the side panels

Attach the last two panels to the sides of the box using the glue gun or a staple gun. You want to keep the opening at the front so that you may insert things inside the container before shooting them. (Photo courtesy of a digital camera.)

5. Test the tent with light

Insert a small item into the tent. Use a basic light source, such as an angle-poise lamp, to shine light through the top of the structure. You should be able to see a good, even light throughout the whole topic area. (Photo courtesy of a digital camera.)

6: Customize the lighting

You may use a white backdrop to make a clean image, but you can also use colorful paper over the infinity curve to add some variety to your photographs. Additionally, lighting may be added via the sides. More suggestions and workarounds: Make your own speedlight softbox using this photo hack. Make your own flashgun clamp with this photo hack. Make your own beanbag camera support with this photo hack. Digital Camera Magazine, the sister print journal to this website, is the best-selling photographic publication in the United Kingdom — and it is also available for purchase outside the United Kingdom under the title Digital Camera World.

Every issue also includes a variety of excellent gifts that are intended to assist you in getting the most out of your photography – everything from tip cards and cheat sheets to free software and bookazines to name a few examples.

Technique EditorAlistair Campbell contributes his own knowledge to the journal, which is led by EditorNiall Hampton.

Make your own light tent out of a cardboard box and household items

Light tents may be a lovely addition to any outdoor space. The results will almost probably be less than stellar, but they are a terrific method to shoot a large number of items fast and efficiently. Once they’re set up, it’s only a matter of shifting out different objects as you shoot. In addition, light tents are not necessarily prohibitively costly. You may get them for a reasonable price by ordering them online. But then you have to sit about and wait for them to arrive. So, what can you do to commence shooting as soon as possible?

Similarly to what photographer Doug McKinlay demonstrates in this video.

Even more importantly, you will not be need to wait for the delivery person.

• A cardboard box will suffice. Any size will do, as long as it is large enough to hold anything you intend to place within it. The greater the size of the object, the softer the light will be
• Clear white fabric – This cloth should be large enough to cover the holes you have cut into the box. Poster board in white
• The use of a clamp light equipped with a daylight balanced bulb optional: a flashlight for use as a sidelight or for light painting

Finding a good cardboard box in the required size may prove to be the most challenging part of the process. You may also try your local supermarket or food shop if you don’t have access to one, advises Doug. The majority of them will have one they are willing to provide you free of charge. In order to begin, the box must first be flattened. Then trace and cut the holes in the box’s sides and top using a craft knife. Doug leaves a 2′′ strip of space around each of the boxes. A chopping board will most likely be necessary to put inside the flattened box to prevent cutting through to the opposite side of the box.

Cut the white posterboard into 2′′ strips next, which is the final step.

Then, on the exterior, cover the holes with the translucent white material to make them appear less noticeable.

Then use packing tape to hold everything together.

This creates the “infinity cove” appearance that you may see on a full-scale set with a cyclorama.

To illuminate the box, Doug employs only a single lamp that is placed to a chair above the aperture at the top of the box.

The direction of the light will be less unpredictable, and you will be able to begin to bring a little shade and depth back into your objects as a result.

However, the final decision is yours.

Option two is to construct your frame from PVC tubing and then wrap your material over it.

If you want to do this more than once or twice, using PVC pipe is a wonderful choice since it will hold up to a bit more abuse and punishment than other types of pipe.

You’ll probably grow out of it in a short period of time, though. However, they are also excellent for swiftly photographing a large number of items to post on eBay.