How to Winterize a Pop-Up Camper
Now that snow flakes are predicted, it is time to start thinking about winterizing your recreational vehicle. Winterizing a pop-up camper is a little bit easier than winterizing a travel trailer or a motor home, but it is just as vital as winterizing any of those vehicles. When it comes to winterizing your pop-up camper, follow this checklist to guarantee that it is ready to travel when the warm weather arrives again.
Winterize Pop-Up Camper Checklist
- All of the water from the pop-up camper water tanks, including the fresh water tank and hot water heater, should be drained out — For pop-up campers, like with travel trailers and motor homes, the most critical part of winterizing a pop-up camper is to completely empty the water out of the tanks. Winter is a freezing and expanding season, and any water left in the pipes will freeze and expand, and if the pipes are not broad enough to allow the expansion, the pipes will break. Set up an air hose to connect to the city water intake — By pumping air through the faucet, you can ensure that all of the water in your water tank is gone. If you have a pop-up camper, this is a very critical step in winterizing it since even a tiny quantity of water may do significant harm if it freezes in the tank
- Fill a jug of antifreeze halfway using a hand pump hose. Removing the suction side of your hand pump from the pop-up camper’s water tank and placing the hose in an antifreeze bottle will help prevent ice buildup. Pump the hand pump until a tiny amount of antifreeze is poured into the drain– Using a pump to pump the water until some antifreeze emerges in the sink, you can be certain that antifreeze is present all the way through your pipes. Connect a hand pump to the city water inlet– Once you have done so, open the faucet and begin pumping antifreeze through the pipes with the hand pump (please note that this requires a separate hand pump). Reconnect everything — At this stage, remember to wipe the sink out completely. Antifreeze has the potential to discolor. If you are using a Porta Potty, ensure sure the holding tank is completely empty before using it. Drain both the fresh water and the black water from your Porta Potty– After you have done this, pour antifreeze into the fresh water holding tank of the Porta Potty. To flush the antifreeze via the Porta Potty, use the hand pump to pump it.
Other Pop-Up Camper Maintenance Tips
- Many individuals prefer to conduct additional maintenance work on their pop-up RV after it has been winterized. We recommend that you: thoroughly clean your pop-up camper from top to bottom, including the canvas and roof of the canvas
- Replace any damaged or missing parts of the pop-up camper
- And replace any missing or damaged parts of the pop-up camper. All of the appliances in your pop-up camper should be cleaned. If at all feasible, keep the refrigerator door open but obstructed. This will allow for better air movement and will help to avoid mold formation. All food products, as well as any objects that may rust or explode (spray cans, for example), should be removed from the pop-up camper. Ensure that the lift system and any moving elements, including as locks, bed slides, and hitches, are properly lubricated. Replace the wheel bearings in their original packaging. Make that the brakes are working properly.
Outdoor Pop-Up Camper Storage Tips
- Close up any gaps on the underside of the pop-up camper, particularly water line openings, through which animals might get access
- Remove the battery from your pop-up camper and store it safely inside your home. Keep in mind to keep it charged throughout the winter. Cover any vent holes, such as those on the refrigerator, furnace, hot water heater, and other appliances. Using plastic shrink wrap, this can be accomplished. Reduce the height of the tongue end of your pop-up camper to the lowest level feasible to allow rain and snow to slide off rapidly
- Keep in mind that if you are parking your pop-up camper on the ground (soil), you must support the wheels up with blocks. Otherwise, when the earth thaws after the winter, they may become entrapped in the mud.
Make sure to thoroughly winterize your pop-up camper even if you are not intending on going camping this winter so that you can be confident that it will survive for many years to come. To acquire winterization materials or to have your pop-up camper inspected before the winter season, stop by Beckley’s Camping Center.
Quick Answer: How To Winterize Coleman Tent Trailer
Remove and bypass the water filters in your RV as part of the winterization process. Take the time to consider removing and bypassing any in-line water filters from the unit before proceeding with any work. Discharge the contents of your black and gray water tanks. Drain the water heater as well as the water lines. Bypass the use of your water heater. Antifreeze should be added to your RV.
How do you store a tent trailer for winter?
Storage Ideas for Pop-Up Campers in the Outdoors Keep in mind to keep it charged throughout the winter. Cover any vent holes, such as those on the refrigerator, furnace, hot water heater, and other appliances. Plastic shrink wrap can be used to accomplish this. Reduce the height of the tongue end of your pop-up camper to the lowest level feasible to ensure that rain and snow will roll off fast.
Can you camp in a pop up camper in the winter?
Is it possible to utilize a pop-up camper throughout the winter? The quick answer is that sure, it is possible. But, it goes without saying, you’ll need to learn a few methods and strategies to keep your popup camper warm while camping in the cold. Pop-up campers are sometimes referred to as folding tent campers and tent trailers, among other names.
How do I unfreeze my RV black tank?
Use a blow dryer to gradually defrost the holding tank of your RV. Maintain a distance of six to twelve inches between the blow dryer and the tank. To clean the exposed part of the tank, slowly move the blow dryer back and forth over it. To unfreeze the tank, repeat the process numerous times.
Do I have to put antifreeze in my RV?
Most of the time, 2 or 3 gallons will provide for your needs. It is not necessary to add antifreeze to your tanks. The tanks should be filled with RV antifreeze once they have been drained, however, to protect the seals and valves after they have been emptied. What you need to do is drain all of the water from your plumbing system, leaving just antifreeze behind.
Should I put RV antifreeze in freshwater tank?
Do not pour antifreeze into your fresh water tank in order to have it circulated via the pump and into your water distribution system. This will consume a significant amount of antifreeze and is not very effective. Even after the tank has been drained, there is still some water at the bottom of the tank, which mixes with the antifreeze and reduces the degree of protection it provides.
What happens if you forget to winterize a camper?
To keep the house warm until you can do the job properly, position a small heater or incandescent bulb SAFELY inside near the water pump, or turn the gas heater on low for a night or two until you have time to finish the job properly.
Should you cover a tent trailer?
Yes, you absolutely should! If you do not have access to suitable RV storage, it is necessary to cover your RV in order to keep it protected against the weather.
Will RV holding tanks freeze?
Having your holding tanks freeze can result in significant damage that is not only time-consuming and expensive to repair, but also dangerous. The likelihood of your holding tank freezing is mostly determined by the position of your holding tank inside your rig. If they are located above the floor level, the ambient heat generated by your inside furnace will aid in delaying the freezing process.
Do I need to winterize my pop up camper?
Yes, if the temperature drops below freezing, you must winterize your home. You can use compressed air to clean the lines of any remaining water and/or RV antifreeze to keep them from freezing.
Is blowing out RV water lines vs antifreeze?
After the tanks have been completely emptied, it must be removed using air pressure or antifreeze to avoid damage. Connecting an air compressor to the incoming fresh-water connection on the RV will allow you to use air to blast water out of the system. If your RV has a hose reel, make sure to clean it out as well.
What happens if you don’t winterize your camper?
In the event that you do not winterize your RV or camper, what happens is as follows: It is possible that your RV will suffer serious damage if you do not winterize it and the temperature falls below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Water freezes when temperatures dip below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the freezing point of water.
How do you winterize an RV without antifreeze?
It is possible to winterize an RV without using antifreeze by just blowing out the plumbing system with compressed air that has been compressed. The use of compressed air for blowing out the system is a way that is less time consuming. There are two items that are necessary in this situation: an air compressor and a “blow out plug.”
Will RV pipes freeze in one night?
Solution: Spend a single night in your RV freezing. If the cold temperatures are only expected to stay a few hours, this is unlikely. All of your water lines are located within the RV; thus, unless the temperature within the RV dips below freezing for long enough to freeze the lines, there is no danger of their freezing.
At what temperature do you need to winterize your RV?
As a general rule of thumb, even if your RV is in use, you should consider winterizing it if the following conditions are present: temperatures regularly below 20 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis You are unable to insulate and heat the underbelly of your RV, or you do not have heated tanks. You’re boondocking and are only able to use your furnace during specific hours.
Should you put antifreeze in black tank?
Pour one quart of special RV antifreeze into the gray and black tanks to keep the drain valves and seals protected from the cold temperatures. Pour antifreeze down all of your sink and shower drains—you want antifreeze in the pipe traps as well as the drains. Fill the toilet bowl with roughly a pint of water to protect the flush valve and seals. It should be noted that RV antifreeze is PINK.
How much does it cost to de winterize an RV?
Depending on the size and class of your RV, a simple winterizing package at an RV dealer might cost anywhere from $130 to $170 dollars.
Taking into consideration the fact that you’ll most likely be spending the same amount to de-winterize the RV in the spring, those prices may really add up over the course of several years.
How do you maintain a tent trailer?
Cleaning Up in the Spring The outside of our pop-up camper is covered in Part One of this series. Canvas should be cleaned and waterproofed. VinylWindows should be cleaned and protected. Exterior cleaning and application of Seal Protectant are recommended. Trailer Bearings should be inspected, greased, and repacked. Clean and lubricate the lift system, as well as inspect the cables. Battery should be checked and charged. Ensure that the fresh water system is clean and flushed.
How to Winterize Your Tent Trailer
Image courtesy of Andy Reynolds/Lifesize/Getty Images Yes, there is more to storing your tent trailer than just dropping the top and leaving it parked for the season at the campsite. Damage to your tent trailer from dry rot, mildew, rust, burst pipes, and other causes might occur if it is not properly prepared for the winter. Take a few simple actions at the conclusion of your camping season to ensure that everything is in working order for the upcoming winter months, and your trailer will be in excellent condition when spring and the following camping season arrive on the scene.
Step 1
Thoroughly clean the inside of the trailer. Remove any food items that may attract rats from the vicinity. Clean out the refrigerator and vacuum up any crumbs that have accumulated in cabinets or storage locations. Sweep the floors and clean any carpets or cushions that have accumulated. Make careful to elevate all mattresses and cushions and clean beneath them to ensure that there is no dirt left behind.
Step 2
All items such as aerosol cans, toiletries that may freeze, pillows, coolers, and fishing gear that you may wish to keep somewhere else for the winter should be removed from the vehicle.
Step 3
The exterior of the tent trailer should be cleaned with a moderate detergent, a gentle scrub brush, and plenty of water.
Step 4
Make any little repairs inside or outside your home that you believe are in need of attention.
Step 5
Open all drains and faucets, as well as the water pipes and water tanks, to drain the water. If your home has a hot water tank, you should bypass it according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Close all faucets and drains, then apply RV antifreeze to the various water lines and tanks in your vehicle. This is not the same as automobile antifreeze, which is extremely dangerous; instead, this is a particular antifreeze that you may get from an RV provider or dealer.
Step 6
Removing the battery and storing it somewhere else is recommended.
Step 7
In order to keep undesirable guests out of your home during the winter, cover any vents and openings other than the entrance with thick plastic or a tarp.
Step 8
Repack the bearings if necessary, and lubricate the moving parts. Check and oil the wheels as needed. Check all of the electrical connections and make sure that all of the lights are operational.
Replace any burned-out bulbs as needed. Place the trailer such that the wheels do not come into contact with any soil. If you want to protect the tires from lying on the ground during the winter, you can elevate and block the trailer after it has been closed.
Step 9
Before shutting the tent trailer, place a chemical air dryer on a flat surface, such as the floor, and connect it to the trailer’s electrical system. This will keep humidity and moisture out, as well as reducing the likelihood of mildew forming. Depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations, you can either cover or leave the tent trailer uncovered. Some tent trailers should be covered with a tarp, while others are not intended to be covered at any time. Consult your trailer’s owner’s handbook to learn which steps are required for your particular model.
- Toolkit includes: shop vacuum, broom, clean rags, water, bucket, RV antifreeze, garden hose, soft scrub brush, mild detergent or vehicle wash solution
- Chemical air drier
- Tarp or heavy plastic
- Lubricant
Background information about the author: Caprice Castano recently retired from the area of construction management to start her own contracting firm and devote more time to establishing her literary career. Among my current undertakings are freelance writing for online media and the completion of a novel-length work of fiction.
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Winter is difficult for everyone, but it may be particularly difficult for RVs. Considering that recreational vehicles have extensive plumbing as well as hiding places for water and moisture, winterizing your RVis an important step in sparing yourself from a lot of costly repairs once the weather starts to warm up. Winterization is explained in detail in the video above, which walks you through the steps in order. Don’t be concerned if the task seems daunting. Your RV may be winterized by one of the skilled service professionals at your local Camping World store.
We’ve broken down the specifics of the video into eight simple stages below.
Let’s get started!
Tools Needed Before You Begin
You’ll need the following equipment and supplies to complete your winterization properly:
- Drilling with a cordless power drill 2 square tip driver bits
- A socket wrench and a 1-1/16′′ socket
- A flashlight
- A new anode rod or plastic plug
- 3-4 gallons of antifreeze (a little extra never hurts)
- A siphoning kit (if the pump is not already equipped)
- A water heater bypass kit (if the water heater is not already equipped)
- Needle nose pliers or a screwdriver
- A set of open-end wrenches
- A set of crescent wrenche
Steps To Winterize Your RV
Image courtesy of Getty Images If you complete all of the processes mentioned above, your RV will be as prepared as it possibly can be for winterization. The benefits of properly winterizing your RV include fewer headaches and stress when spring finally arrives.
1. Drain and Flush the Black and Gray Water Tanks
It is critical that you do not allow wastewater to accumulate in your RV over the winter. Not only may such tanks serve as a breeding ground for a variety of germs, but the water in them can also freeze, resulting in serious complications. Drain both tanks at the same time, starting with the black water tank and working your way down. Once both tanks have been drained, clean the black tank with a special black tank cleaner or a cleaning wand to remove any remaining debris.
2. Drain and Flush the Water Heater
It will also be necessary to drain the water from your water heater. This implies that you must switch it off and let it to cool down without being under any strain. Connect your RV to city water while keeping the water turned off. Using your socket wrench, remove the drain stopper or anode rod and then release the pressure relief valve, which will allow the pressure to escape. The water will be able to drain as a result. If the water heater is hot or if there is a buildup of pressure, avoid draining it.
Wait for the temperature and pressure to return to normal. As soon as the water has been emptied, turn on the water pressure and flush away the sediment for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the anode rod if it is worn out and store it outside over the winter; make a note to replace it in the spring.
3. Bypass the Water Heater
In order to properly apply antifreeze to your RV, you must first make sure that the water heater has been bypassed. Any antifreeze that makes its way into your water heater should be avoided at all costs. Some recreational vehicles will already have a bypass fitted. To locate the water heater, locate the water heater service door on the exterior of the RV and line it up with the location where the water heater feeds into the inside of the RV. The majority of the time, there will be an access panel inside that you will need to take out.
4. Drain the Fresh Tank and Low Point Drains
Before removing the stopper and draining the freshwater tank, be sure that the water pressure has been turned off. If you can, open the faucets to assist with the flow of water. As soon as you’re finished, turn off all of the faucets and block the low point drains.
5. Locate the Water Pump
Attach the siphoning kit, or if your RV is equipped with one, locate the siphoning hose and insert it into the gallon of antifreeze you’ve been holding captive. Turn the valve to the open position. In order for the antifreeze to begin to flow through the water system, you must turn on the water pump.
6. Open External Faucets and Valves on the Outside of the RV
Open the low point drain valves or remove the low point drain plugs, starting with the lowest valve and working your way up. This will enable water to flow out. Keep doing so until the water becomes pink (this indicates that the antifreeze has made its way through the pipes fully), then close the valves or tighten the plugs again. Make use of any outside showers or external faucets by turning them on and running one side (hot or cold) until the water runs pink, then closing them and running the other.
7. Open Internal Faucets, Showers, and Toilets
Open the low point drain valves or remove the low point drain plugs, starting with the lowest valve and working your way up. Allow water to flow out of the system. Close the valves or retighten the plugs after doing so until the water becomes pink (this indicates that the antifreeze has made its way through the system). Activate any outside showers or external faucets by turning them on and running one side (hot or cold) until the water runs pink, then closing them and running the other.
8. Pour Antifreeze Down P-Traps
In order to prevent the external termination pipes from freezing during winter, you need pour some more antifreeze down the drain of each sink, shower, and toilet in the RV. After you’ve completed all of this, double-check that the water heater’s heating element is switched off and that all taps are shut off completely.
Get Help If You Need It
Image courtesy of Getty Images We understand if the actions outlined above appear to be too hard, or if they are simply not something you want to perform during this holiday season. Simply come into your local Camping World shop and our highly skilled service technicians will take care of everything for you there and then. While doing it yourself might be enjoyable, hiring pros to take care of your mobile home is never a bad idea in the long run. For further winterization tips and techniques, consult the owner’s handbook for your recreational vehicle (RV).
After all, when RV season rolls around again, a thorough winterization will result in a successful spring cleaning. Do you want to book a visit from a winterization service technician? Find the Camping World location that is most convenient for you!
How to Winterize a Pop Up Camper in 14 Steps
Even a single step in a winterization routine might result in damage to the camper and the need for costly repairs in the spring. No, I’m not stating this to terrify you; yet, it is real. In order to prevent this from happening, it is critical to have a detailed winterization checklist that you can refer to on an annual basis. I’ve made every effort to meet your expectations. Let’s get this party started.
How to Winterize a Pop Up Camper
Let’s start with a fundamental winterization step that is sometimes forgotten. If you are parking your camper on a surface other than hard concrete, you should install wheel blocks to protect the wheels. Yes, it is true that the soil you are considering parking on has become rock solid in recent days. This is due to the fact that it is really chilly outside. However, guess what? It won’t be this chilly for much longer. At some point, though, the earth will begin to thaw, and that hard soil will turn into mud if it rain or snows.
Get your wheel blocks right away!
2. Prep Your Tongue
Okay, so it’s not yourtongue per se, but the tonguehitch on your pop up camper. The hitch will most likely remain linked to your camper during the off-season even if it is not connected to a towing vehicle or other vehicle. Before you put your camper away for the winter, you’ll want to make sure that the tongue end is properly positioned on the frame. It should be as low as you are able to get away with. When it snows or showers, the liquid will flow off the hitch at an angle, rather than accumulating and remaining on the surface of the road.
3. Close All Your Vents
It’s critical that all of the vents in your camper are completely closed before you leave. And who knows what type of harm you’ll do if you let chilly air enter your pop up shop. Do you truly want to know the answer? Most likely not. If you don’t have the ability to manually open and close your vents, plastic wrap is about to become your best friend. A well packed square of the substance over the vents should provide enough of a seal to effectively block the vents. Make sure you clean every vent, including the ones that are often overlooked, such as the ones for the hot water heater, furnace, and refrigerator.
4. Bring Your Battery
Your camper’s battery is the lifeline of the vehicle. You won’t be able to use any of the amenities if your battery is dead. It’s critical to take good care of your batteries, charging them when they’re low, and keeping an eye on the wattage of the products and appliances that you use every day. Battery maintenance does not cease when your camping excursions come to an end for the season. If you leave your batteries in your vehicle during the cold season, you will almost certainly find that they are dead when you return.
Yes, those will be reduced to zero, but it is possible to entirely destroy the batteries.
It is possible that they will die as a result of this.
Place them in a dark, out-of-the-way location such as your home or garage, away from direct sunlight.
Oh, and be sure you charge the batteries when they reach 80 percent capacity. Even when the batteries are not in use, they will naturally drain, so make it a weekly routine to check to see how much juice is available in them.
5. Look for and Patch up Gaps and Holes
The idea is that if you leave your pop-up camper unattended for the winter, nothing or no one will be able to get inside. Yet if you have any holes in your vehicle, even small ones, you could be surprised to find that critters have been living in your camper all winter. From mice, rats, insects, and even bats, if you want to keep them out, you’ll have to patch up every last gap and hole. To accomplish that, start by checking the inside, exterior, underbelly, and top of your pop up camper. If you notice any gaps or holes, keep track of them, as you’ll come back to them later.
Now critters and insects can’t get in.
6. Lubricate and Lubricate Some More
Because you will not be utilizing sections of your camper such as the hitches, bed slides, locks, and other moving components for a few months does not mean you should leave them to rot in their original state. Apply lubrication to their surfaces. Utilize the same quantity as you would usually, since excessive lubrication might result in a sticky smear. If you are able to return to your car anytime during the off-season and lube it again, that would be fantastic. However, depending on your storage option, this may not always be viable in all situations.
Its components will last through the winter as long as you remember to lubricate them before you leave for the season.
7. Unplug Everything
In a pop up camper, leaving stuff running will not have an impact on the battery because you are transporting it, but it is still not a good idea in most situations. If you’re keeping anything onboard for the winter, including your refrigerator, small counter appliances, and alarm clocks, make sure they’re not connected in. It’s possible that you’ll unintentionally destroy your beloved electrical device this way. If it is a significant appliance, the cost of replacing it might be prohibitively high.
8. No Food Left Behind
Remember how I indicated in an earlier part that creatures and insects would be delighted to spend the winter in your pop-up camper? One method of attracting them that is nearly certain to work is to leave food in the car. I’m talking about any type of food, whether it’s sealed or not. Whatever is edible and has a fragrance, even if it is a faint one, will pique the interest of some chilly, hungry beast. Even if you believe that leaving bottled, sealed beverages or unopened cans is safe, you’d be amazed at how dangerous it can be.
It isn’t just about eating, either.
You do not want to return in the spring to find an infestation on your property.
It’s also not a bad idea to do this.
9. Clean up Your Camper
Before you can winterize your camper, you must thoroughly clean it from top to bottom, inside and out. Not only does this eliminate the aforementioned rodent and bug problem, but it also saves you time in the spring while you are preparing your garden. Your camper will not be immaculate after winterization, but it will be far less dirty than it would be if you had not cleaned it before putting it away. One suggestion, if you have the ability to do so, is to leave the refrigerator door open. Given that your refrigerator will be disconnected in any case, there is no risk in doing so.
In fact, it has the potential to be beneficial. When you keep the fridge door closed, the warm, slippery climate creates the ideal habitat for mold and mildew to thrive and spread throughout the refrigerator. When the door is left open, enough air may pass through to prevent mold from growing.
10. Empty Your Toilet and Tanks
All of your tanks, including your freshwater and blackwater tanks, must be completely depleted of water. If you have a marine toilet, don’t forget to bring that along as well. You may always dispose of a cassette toilet outside at a waste disposal facility at your convenience if you like. You may even deep clean your marine toilet if you want to. This may be accomplished by opening the freshwater holding tank and pouring antifreeze into it. Make use of your hand pump to force all of the antifreeze via the drain.
11. Empty Your Hot Water Heater, Too
Don’t forget about your hot water heater when you’re getting ready for winter. The tanks should be entirely depleted before use. Before you handle your hot water heater, check sure it has been properly de-energized and allowed to cool down completely. If you don’t, you run the danger of burning or badly harming yourself. Drain your hot water heater fully as soon as you are able to do so in a safe manner. If even a small amount of water stays in the pipes, you are in for a nasty time. The water will get ice cold and eventually solidify.
That might cause your pipes to burst.
That’s a surprise no one wants to be reminded of in the future.
12. Winterize Your Shower and Sinks
If you’re fortunate enough to have an inside shower in your pop-up camper, you’ll have to put in some effort to make it ready for the season ahead of you. You’ll need to use antifreeze once again, but this time make sure it’s pink or has some other bright hue. This way, you’ll be able to view it when it’s released. Begin by turning on your cold-water faucet by cranking it. After that, repeat the process with the hot-water knob. Fill the freshwater tank with antifreeze and leave the faucets running for a few minutes.
Put in this effort for both your shower and your sink, and your situation will improve.
13. Check Your Awnings and Tent Sides
I mentioned before how important it is to thoroughly clean your pop-up camper before using it. Pay particular attention to the sides of your awnings and/or tents while you do this. These can become worn down as a result of exposure to severe weather or prolonged use. If you discover any stray threads, clip them as soon as possible. If there are any surplus strings at the seams, these should be cut down as well. In addition, look for additional indicators of wear and tear such as tears, rips, or punctures.
However, don’t wait until the spring to deal with the problem. Even the simplest actions, such as rolling up the awning or retracting the tent sides, can cause a minor rip to grow in size. Now is a good time to patch it up and check on it in the spring.
14.Test Your Lift System
I’ve written about your pop-up camper lift system, so if you haven’t already, I urge that you read it. Your lift system may be operated by a manual crank or it may be driven by electricity. Regardless, you should thoroughly inspect and test all of the parts and components before storing them for the winter. If the limit switch is not functioning properly or the lift system is not functioning properly, do not wait until the spring to get everything repaired. Ensure that any moving components that are slow or appear dried out are lubricated.
Pop Up Camper Storage Options
Before you can begin making all of your winterization preparations, you must first decide where you will park your pop-up camper during the off-season. In the event that you own a modest pop-up camper, you could be in luck. Its small footprint makes it suitable for parking in your driveway or, in some cases, even in your garage. If you don’t have a garage, you may always park the car on your street. Before taking this option, you may want to consult with your homeowner’s association (if applicable) or your neighborhood to ensure that you are not in violation of any zoning rules.
- After all, you don’t want to offend anyone, do you?
- Instead, you will be required to store your vehicle in a storage facility.
- If you choose indoor storage over outdoor storage, you will have to spend more money.
- If you park your camper at the facility, you will be charged a monthly fee for the whole time it is there.
- If you have to leave your camper outside in the elements for the next several months, you should park it in a shaded area to protect it from the elements.
- As previously discussed in the essay, wheel blocks will come in helpful in this situation.
- One such cover is available from Classic Accessories on Amazon, and it looks like this: While a cover of this nature is not inexpensive, it may provide excellent protection for your camper from the weather.
- It is composed of fiber structure, which prevents the water from seeping through.
- Instead, they feature a unique finish that allows water to easily glide straight off of the surface.
- The result is that your pop up camper is vulnerable to water damage.
In addition, your cover should be UV-resistant. The sun’s rays might still reach your car even if the cover is not properly installed. When you use a UV-resistant cover, you can keep your pop up safe from fading and other sun damage.
Conclusion
For many pop-up camper and RV owners, the time has come to prepare for the winter months. When it comes to packing it in until the warmer weather arrives, I believe this guide will provide you with all of the information you need to make the necessary preparations. By completing our winterization checklist, you will ensure that no area of your camper is left unattended.
All of the 2020 Coleman Travel Trailers
As a result, what is now accessible in the world of Coleman travel trailers for the year 2020? There’s a lot of it. Take a look at our breakdown of the different brands and models, starting with the single axle conventional models and progressing to the dual axle laminates. You’ll be able to see what floorplans are available, how many outdoor enthusiasts will be able to sleep, and the dry (unloaded) weight of each vehicle. I’d want to make a short point concerning dry (unloaded) weight. This figure is an average of what each RV weighs before it is transported to an RV dealer, as provided by the manufacturer.
Now it’s time to talk about the Colemans.
Coleman Lantern LT
The Lantern LT range is traditional and lightweight (thus the ‘LT’ in the name), making it ideal for active campers who want to get out and explore the great outdoors. There are a few things they all have in common, such as a power awning with LED patio light, convenient USB outlets, and residential standard vinyl flooring. The following are listed in order of size (with the first four being single axle):
- Camping World LT 17FQ – Bunkhouse floorplan, sleeps 6, weight 3,205 lbs
- Coleman Lantern LT 17RD – Rear Dinette floorplan, sleeps 4
- Coleman Lantern LT 18FQ – Rear Bath floorplan, sleeps 4
- Coleman Lantern LT 18RB – Rear Bath floorplan, sleeps 3, weight 3,111 lbs
- Coleman Lantern LT 202RD – Rear Dinette floorplan, sleeps 4, weight 4,225 lbs
Visit Camping World to see the Coleman Lantern LT Campers in person.
Coleman Lantern
Similar to the Lantern LT series, except that they start and end larger and are intended for individuals who desire just a little bit more space in their travel trailer than the Lantern LT line provides. The following are some characteristics that all of these have in common: Every feature of this unit is exceptional, including Everwear luxury furnishings as well as a class-leading 60 gallon covered and insulated freshwater tank. The following are the sizes of Coleman Lanterns:
- Camping World Coleman Lantern 244BH – Bunkhouse floorplan, sleeps 8, dry weight 5,462 lbs
- Coleman Lantern 250TQ – Toy Hauler floorplan, sleeps 4, dry weight 5,514 lbs
- Camping World Coleman Lantern 263BH – Bunkhouse floorplan, sleeps 8, dry weight 5,820 lbs
- Coleman Lantern 264RL – Rear Living floorplan, sleeps 4, dry weight 6,096 lbs
- Coleman Lantern 285BH This is a toy transporter, and it will be coming sometime in April, as far as we know. Among the Coleman Lantern models are the 295QB bunkhouse floorplan, which sleeps 9, and the 300TQ toy hauler floorplan, which sleeps 5, and which weighs 6,838 lbs
- The 334BH bunkhouse floorplan, which sleeps 11, and the 337BH bunkhouse floorplan, which sleeps 8, and which weighs 8,437 lbs
- The 334BH bunkhouse floorplan, which sleeps 11, and the 337BH bunkhouse floorplan, which sleeps 8.
Camping World has a large selection of Coleman Lantern Campers to choose from.
Coleman Light LX
Coleman laminates are introduced with the Light LX models, which are the first of the Coleman laminates. These are relatively lightweight and can carry a great deal for a small amount of weight. Residential queen bed with improved Rest Easy mattress, fully enclosed underbelly, and Coleman Cavern passthrough storage are just a few of the amenities available on all Coleman Light LX models. A few LX variants are available, and the first two are single-axle configurations:
- There are three models: Coleman Light LX 1605FB – Rear Kitchen layout, sleeps 4, dry weight 3,354 lbs
- Coleman Light LX 1705RB – Rear Bath floorplan, sleeps 3, dry weight 3,481 lbs
- And Coleman Light LX 1855RB – It is fresh new. They will be delivered to us by the travel trailer stork in the near future. Sleeps 7, dry weight 4,267 lbs
- Coleman Light LX 2125BH – Bunkhouse floorplan, sleeps 7
See all of the Coleman Light LX campers available at Camping World!
Coleman Light
The Coleman Light line, which includes a variety of tents and sleeping bags, is popular among campers who wish to camp in luxury without having to spend a lot of money to do so. What you’ll find on every Coleman Light, in terms of amenities, is the same as what you’ll find on Coleman Light LX models, plus a few nice upgrades such as stainless-steel appliances, a flush-mounted stove with a glass cover, and pleated nightshades, among others.
The Coleman Light product line includes the following items:
- Among the Coleman Light floorplans are the Coleman Light 1805RB – Rear Bath floorplan, which sleeps three people and weighs 4,136 pounds
- Coleman Light 2425RB – Rear Bath floorplan, which sleeps four people and weighs 5,474 pounds
- Coleman Light 2455BH – Bunkhouse floorplan, which sleeps eight people and weighs 5,708 pounds
- Coleman Light 2515RL – Rear Living floorplan, which sleeps four people and weighs 5,260 pounds
- Coleman YES, we have another another new Coleman Light 2755BH in our inventory. It’s finally arrived. because it is so new that there are no specifications accessible
- Rear Kitchen floorplan, sleeps 4, dry weight 6,654 lbs
- Bunkhouse floorplan, sleeps 8, dry weight 6,227 lbs
- Coleman Light 2955RL — Yet another new rear living model, this time with a sleeping loft! However, it is currently available
- Coleman Light 3215BH – Another new bunkhouse that we have, however because it is so new, there are no specifications available at this time
At Camping World, you can see all of the Coleman Light Campers available. So there’s the lowdown on every Coleman travel trailer now on RV dealer lots around the country, as well as every Coleman travel trailer that will be available shortly. Do you have any questions? Never be afraid to ask a question. If you need help, we’ll point you in the proper way.
De-winterizing Coleman Yukon
You are currently using an out-of-date web browser. It is possible that this or other websites will not show correctly. You need either upgrade your browser or switch to another one. I recently acquired my first pop-up camper, a 1996 Coleman Yukon, from a family member. His camper was winterized prior to putting it away in storage for the season. There is no instruction in the handbook on how to de-winterize the camper, which is frustrating because I need to do so. What is the best method for de-winterizing a camper?
- Hello there, and welcome to the popup portal!
- I, too, recently acquired a 1997 Coleman Yukon, similar to what you did last autumn.
- The previous owner may have placed antifreeze in the system if your camper had a hot water heater (mine does not), to keep the pipes from freezing and busting during the winter months.
- It was just this past weekend that I took my camper out of storage and performed some basic maintenance on it.
- I opened the camper and gave it a thorough inspection before letting it air out.
- I connected the garden hose to the “city water” connection on the faucet and ran water through it till it came out the drain.
- 4.
4.
After that, I stepped on the gas.
I took the batteries out of the garage, installed it, and then connected everything together.
Connected the inverter to the battery and checked that all of the equipment were operational (stove, heater, lights) 7.
8.
9.
10.
Congratulations on the release of your new trailer!
fhCorrection on 4 in the previous paragraph.
Propane should be handled with extreme caution in your camper.
Read more about Camping with a Pop-Up Tent.
L.
My propane is used for cooking outside the camper, and we were really pleased with her recommendation to use a space heater instead of the propane heater in the camper.
We could see the steam rising from our lungs!
The camper was completely warm after only twenty minutes! Even with the heater turned off on the table, the camper maintained its heat. We’re now using the propane stand to hold a five-gallon water cooler. No more lugging along a 20-pound gas tank when a little bottle of propane would suffice.
Winterizing a Pop Up Camper
Eventually, as the nights grow longer, the days grow shorter, and the temperature plummets, the majority of campers will reach a tipping point when they will just put their rigs away until the weather improves. There’s still much to do outside during the cooler fall and winter months, but cold weather camping isn’t for everyone, and as a result, the majority of us will have to deal with the topic of how to winterize our RVs at some time in the future. Of course, there are some winterization activities that even cold-weather campers must complete in between excursions to keep their equipment safe.
If you plan to use your rig during the colder winter months, this step must be completed every time you return home.
Despite the fact that there is still enough to see and do in the winter, do you really want to winterize your pop up camper more than once?
Pop Up Camper Winterizing Checklist
When storing your pop-up tent for the winter or pulling it out on occasion as time and weather allow, it’s critical to protect it from the damaging effects of cold temperatures and the elements. Here are some tips to keep your pop-up tent safe this winter. The fundamental procedures are as follows:
- Remove any waste from the holding tanks and clean the water pipes. Antifreeze (not automotive antifreeze) should be added. Inside and outside of the rig should be cleaned
- Remove anything that has the potential to freeze or for mold and mildew to develop. Take care of your camper. If at all feasible, store the device in an area where it will not be exposed to the elements.
The Dangers of Freezing Water
It is possible that what occurred to this can of coke may happen to your water heater or fresh water tank if the water freezes and expands. Because when water freezes, it expands, and if the water freezes in an enclosed space, the expansion may cause a great deal of destruction. Consider the consequences of water freezing inside your pop-up camper. There are a number of systems that you should be aware of and be concerned about. They are listed below in descending order of how costly it is to replace them:
- Faucets, water lines, filter canisters, water pumps, toilets, and water heaters are all examples of plumbing.
A harsh frost in your location might result in the freezing of any remaining water in those components, which would result in a significant bill in the spring when the weather warms up. If you have enough space to keep your pop up in a heated garage, you can avoid the chance of freezing, but not everyone has that luxury. However, even if you do have that choice, you should still consider winterizing your pop up since you might be one power failure away from being trapped in an unheated garage and causing serious harm to your vehicle.
Dump Your Tanks
The first thing you’ll want to do is empty your waste water tank or tanks before you do anything else. You’ll want to complete the whole dumping operation before you begin draining the fresh water holding tank. This will entail pouring water from your fresh water holding tank into your gray and/or black tanks.
Gravity Draining a Pop Up Camper
Many pop-up campers with any form of water holding tanks are equipped with a gravity drain, which is typically comprised of two valves that are positioned either on the floor or underside of the unit in the supply and return water lines, respectively. Open your sink faucet by pulling the t-handle valves on each side of the sink. As soon as you open the faucet, the vacuum in the system is broken, allowing water to pour out by gravity feed and into the ground underneath your pop-up canopy.
However, while depending on gravity to drain the water is frequently “good enough,” doing so implies that any water lines that are lower than the drain point will hold water, and you may also retain water in your filter canister or hot water tank.
Winterizing With Compressed Air
If you have access to an air compressor, you will find that pushing air into the water pipes of your pop up camper will often eliminate any water that has collected in any concealed low spots. The actual procedure varies a little based on the features included in your pop-up window.
- Drain the fresh water tank
- Disconnect the water supply line from the water pump
- And reconnect the water supply line. Open the faucet in your sink
- Compressor air should be blown into the input side of your water pump. The water pump must be reconnected to the water tank. Using your mouth, blow air into the sink drain.
- The fresh water tank should be drained. Bypassing the hot water tank is a good idea. The pressure release valve on the hot water tank should be opened. Removing or opening the hot water drain stopper or drain petcock is required. After the hot water tank has been completely drained, reinstall the stopper or close the petcock. Remove the water filter from the water filter canister and replace it with an empty canister (if one is available). Remove the water supply line from the water pump and store it somewhere safe. Start by turning on the cold water faucet. Blowing air into the input of your water pump will improve its performance. Close the cold water faucet and then turn on the hot water faucet to complete the cycle. Blowing air into the input of your water pump will improve its performance. Continue same procedure with your external shower (if one is available). Using your mouth, blow air into the sink drain. Remove the water filter canister and empty it (if one is provided)
- Replace the empty canister (if one is provided).
Pop-up tents with an indoor shower and/or a cassette toilet are available.
- Open the toilet’s outside access door from the outside. Remove the fill tube and the cap by pulling them apart. Rotate the tube till it can drain freely without being obstructed
- After the fill tube has been drained, replace the cap and put it somewhere safe. Rotate the indicator tube and let it to drain completely before continuing. Replace the indication tube and close the access door to the external
- And
Winterizing With Antifreeze
RV/marine antifreeze is often pink in color and harmless in composition. If you have an air compressor, winterizing a pop-up camper with compressed air is a reasonably simple and quick process that typically produces satisfactory results. Winterizing with antifreeze, on the other hand, takes things a step further. If you anticipate a strong freeze and want to minimize the possibility of harm to your pop-up, this is the strategy to take to prevent it from being damaged. Nonetheless, it is vital to understand that we do not refer to automobile antifreeze when we say “antifreeze.” You can get the material you need from camping equipment stores; it’s often pink in color and is harmless, as opposed to very dangerous vehicle antifreeze.
- The fresh water tank should be drained. Remove the water supply line from the water pump and store it somewhere safe. Connect the inlet of your water pump to a hose that is approximately two feet in length. Insert the hose’s free end into a jug of RV water system antifreeze
- Secure the hose in place. To begin, turn on the water pump and open the faucet in your sink. When the pink antifreeze begins to flow out of the faucet, turn it off immediately. Allow antifreeze to drain into the p-trap after removing the drain stopper from the sink. The fresh water tank must be reconnected to the water pump.
- The fresh water tank should be drained. Bypassing the hot water tank is a good idea. The pressure release valve on the hot water tank should be opened. Removing or opening the hot water drain stopper or drain petcock is required. After the hot water tank has been completely drained, reinstall the stopper or close the petcock. Remove the water filter from the water filter canister and replace it with an empty canister (if one is available). Remove the water supply line from the water pump and store it somewhere safe. Connect the inlet of your water pump to a hose that is approximately two feet in length. Insert the hose’s free end into a jug of RV water system antifreeze
- Secure the hose in place. Start by turning on the cold water tap and turning on the pump
- As soon as pink antifreeze starts to pour out of the faucet, shut it off and turn on the hot water faucet. Using the same procedure, turn on both the cold and hot water in your external shower (if one is available). Close the water supply valve and open either faucet to remove any pressure that has built up. Ensure that the antifreeze drains into the sink’s p-trap. The water pump must be reconnected to the fresh water tank. Empty the water filter canister (if one is provided) and drain out any remaining water and antifreeze before refilling it.
The Importance of Winterizing Your Pop Up
Despite the fact that winterizing your pop up is a time-consuming process, it must be completed every time you expect cold temperatures to prevail. A brief plunge below freezing that lasts only a few hours is unlikely to cause a problem, but a severe freeze is very guaranteed to do so, regardless of whether you want to use the camper again the following weekend or if you intend to store it until the spring or summer. Replacement of a ruptured hot water tank can cost upwards of $600, and water pumps can cost several hundred dollars as well, not to mention the labor expenses associated with having these components installed in the first place.
Leaving your rig out in the weather, whether it’s uncovered or poorly folded up, may cause damage that takes time to manifest itself, whilst failing to clean your water system can result in a significant costly burden the next time you wish to go camping.
