How to Rebuild and Repair a Water Damaged Pop-Up Camper Roof: Part 1
I was aware that the roof of our 1993 pop-up camper had been damaged by water when we acquired it. My ignorance, on the other hand, did not allow me to see the extent of the harm. We were able to repair the roof and now have a camper that looks almost brand new, but the length of time it required to finish the restoration made it a significant undertaking. After determining the extent of the damage to our camper’s roof, I searched the internet for videos and articles on how to repair water-damaged roofs.
If nothing else, I hope my piece may be of assistance to anyone who, like me, are overwhelmed by the process of replacing the roof of a camper that has rotted away.
Part 1: Removing the Pop Up Camper Roof and Assessing the Water Damage (you are here)
- Remove the outside trim to determine the extent of the damage
- Remove the canvas and the roof from the structure. Remove rotten and water-damaged wood from the structure.
Part 2: Rebuilding/Repairing the Roof and Making it Water Tight
- Rebuild the roof structure with new wood, then reattach the roof and canvas to the camper. Sealing Up Holes and Seams to Prevent Leaks in the Future
- Repair the ceiling in a cosmetic manner
Remove the Exterior Trim to Assess Damage
The first step in removing the trim is to remove the vinyl trim insert that hides the screws on the bottom of the trim. If your camper resembles mine in any way, the vinyl trim is most likely cracked, damaged, moldy, or all three of these conditions. When you pull on this trim, it should easily pop out of the way. After then, it’s time to take the screws out. This provided me with a fair indication of where the water damage was located on the camper while I was removing the screws. It was discovered that several of the screws were rusty, and in other cases, fully rotted away, indicating that the surrounding wood was also decaying away.
- After removing all of the screws, I used an etal putty knife/scraper to scrape away all of the old, gunky, sticky butyl tape that had accumulated.
- After removing the majority of the putty tape, I cleaned the area with mineral spirits and a fine mesh steel wool to remove any remaining crud.
- As I began to loosen the trim screws, I saw that section of our camper’s roof was literally falling apart since the whole perimeter, as well as much of the top structure, was decaying.
- My You Tube channel has the final reveal of the camper, as well as the previous milestones in the roof reconstruction process.
Detach the Canvas and Remove the Roof
You should disconnect the canvas from the roof and then remove the roof in order to reconstruct it if you discover, as we did, that you will need to replace a significant portion of the wood on your pop up roofing system. It is possible that you will be able to skip on to Part 2 – Seal Up the Roof to Prevent Future Water Damage if your water damage is modest and the wood is structurally solid. Our roof could not be salvaged in its entirety, so we devised a plan to rebuild it. This required us to remove the entire roof, which was a major undertaking.
On the most basic level, the canvas is fastened to metal strips, which are subsequently screwed into the roof’s sides.
I was successful in this endeavor.
Ours were fastened using bolts and nuts on the interior of the camper, making it simple to take them out when necessary.
After everything had been separated from the main body of the camper, we removed the roof and placed it on top of two sawhorses that were set up immediately next to the camper. Watch the video below for a closer look at our roof after it has been demolished.
Remove Rotted and Water Damaged Wood
As you watched the video above, you undoubtedly saw how much portions of the wood on our camper had rotted away. Clearly, this monster has been drinking a lot of water over a lengthy period of time. We decided to fully remove our roof on all four sides, as well as repair the outside border of the 1 x 2′′ frame on the exterior. If the water damage is severe enough, you will have the option of entirely removing the skin, the foam, and all of the framework lumber and starting over from the ground up with a new structure.
- It was determined that, rather than entirely removing the entire roof and rebuilding all of the foam and framework, we would only repair the parts of wood that had been damaged by water and were no longer structurally sound as opposed to the entire roof.
- We were fortunate in that we didn’t have to replace the inside 1 x 2′′ structure, which allowed us to preserve the skin and foam in their original locations.
- The only thing that kept those parts in place was the fact that they were still linked to the inside ceiling of the building.
- This will result in a significant increase in the amount of labor required to restore the skin in order to prevent water leaks.
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Pop Up Camper Remodel: Repairing a Coleman ABS Roof
When we acquired our pop-up camper, we had been shopping on Craigslist for a good offer for quite some time, and we finally found it. I wasn’t sure what I was looking for in a pop-up, but I was certain of one thing: I did not want a Coleman with an ABS roof on it. When this tiny Coleman Santa Fe came along, we certainly chucked that out the window as soon as we could. Because our Santa Fe was in such great shape for the price, we leaped at the opportunity to buy it. After reading horror stories about the Coleman ABS roof, I was optimistic that we would be able to avoid any difficulties.
- Coleman, on the other hand, came up with the brilliant concept of putting a one-piece ABS plastic roof on some of their higher-end pop-up trailers in the mid-1990s.
- Many campers suffered serious cracking and delamination as a result of the drying effects of the sun.
- Coleman/pop-up Fleetwood’s camper division finally went out of business, and it is now difficult to have your roof fixed if you own one of these campers.
- I was of the same opinion.
- There was very little breaking in our ABS roof.
- The roof was in good condition overall.
- The Pop Up Portalwas a useful resource for all things repair-related, and there is a substantial amount of information on the MEK repair procedure available on the portal’s pages.
So, what exactly is the ABS MEK patching procedure?
TypeTwoFun began by drilling a tiny hole at either end of the crack to serve as a pilot hole.
His next step was cleaning out the fracture using a cutting wheel.
Now, I don’t have a photo of the following phase since the substance Mr.
When he started administering the substance, he was required to wear a respirator.
MEK is a solvent that degrades plastic, and it is extremely hazardous to human health.
ABS pellets are available for purchase on eBay, however we just utilized white airsoft bb’s, which happen to be made of ABS plastic, for our project.
Apply a little amount of MEK to a clean rag and wipe down the cracks you are mending.
Patch your cracks using a Popsicle stick or a paint stirrer, and then allow them to cure completely.
Following the completion of your crack repair, you may sand it down with some fine grit sandpaper or steel wool to refine the appearance of the patch.
We wanted to make sure that the area on which our bedliner paint would be applied was as clean as possible.
That’s exactly what you’re looking for.
After that, we utilized drop cloths and painters tape to protect the sections that we didn’t want to paint anymore.
You’d want to use MEK to clean the whole roof of your house.
Make sure you use gloves to protect your hands and that you inspect them for holes on a regular basis.
You are now ready to begin painting your bedliner using acrylic paint.
It is reputed to be quite durable, and it is a popular product among Coleman ABS owners who have purchased it.
It took us around 6.5 feet by 8 feet to complete our camper, and we had enough of product left over.
This step was also quite poisonous, so I avoided it as well.
TypeTwoFun finishing off the first coat.
The same regulations apply here: gloves and a respirator are required, and it must not come into contact with your flesh.
Remember the crack in the corner from before?
The roof is just stunning.
Up addition, the spidery fractures beneath the awning rail have been filled in.
It appears to be in good condition, and I am hopeful that it will survive the whole life of the trailer.
Even though we tried everything, we couldn’t get it to work again.
We acquired it from Coleman Popup Parts (colemanpopupparts.com).
We used some acetone to clean the lip of the roof to ensure that the new seal would adhere to a clean surface when it was installed.
Then we cranked the roof all the way down to ensure that the seal remained in place while the glue set.
Isn’t it beautiful?
It’s possible that this repair is the best option if you only have a few fractures in your ABS plastic, like we did. The results of our testing will be reported after the summer. Who’s up for a little camping adventure now? Camping is a blast!
Rockwood Pop Up Camper Roof Rebuild: Deconstruction
Disclaimer: We do not pretend to be professionals. In this post, we’ll go over the methods we used to replace the roof of our Rockwood pop-up camper. Different (and even superior) methods of repairing a damaged roof may be available, and our personal experiences should not be regarded as professional advise. However, please don’t assume that we are flawless because we like discussing the progress of our makeover with you all. This is the first time we’ve taken on a roofing project of this magnitude.
- You may find out more about our “new” small Rockwood camper by clicking here.
- Our Coleman pop-up camper has provided us with the most of our hands-on pop-up camper experience up to this point in our lives.
- We tackled the roof reconstruction project in the same way we would a puzzle.
- This is something I strongly advise you to do.
- We really want to go into depth about how we went about repairing the roof of our pop-up camper, so we’re going to divide this piece up into multiple smaller sections to do so.
- Building the roof of the pop-up camper wasn’t difficult, but it was time-consuming and laborious.
- What’s the first order of business?
REMOVING THE ROOF
The very first thing we did was take the canvas off the walls. The canvas of our pop-up camper slides into a slot at the bottom of the plastic curtain tracks, which are attached to the walls of our home. After removing the screws that held it in place, it was as simple as unzipping the canvas at each corner of the track and sliding the individual components out of the track. Given how long they had been in place, we had to gently pull the track up a bit where the screws had been in order to remove them completely.
After we had taken down the canvas, we also took down the curtain tracks and tagged them before putting everything else away.
Using this method, we were able to prevent the roof from falling on us as we were pulling it apart.
As soon as the cable tension was lessened a little, we were able to detach the nuts that held the lift arms to the roof of the building.
It’s important to remember that the 2x4s are now keeping the roof up. Then we gathered our adolescents and divided the roof into sections, each individual taking a section of it. We raised the roof of the camper off the body of the vehicle and set it upright on the garage’s concrete floor.
TAKING THE ROOF APART
In addition to removing the RV vent and all of the metal trim from the outside of the roof, Justin (Mr. TypeTwoFun) also removed the roof shingles. Getting rid of the caulk and butyl tape was a difficult operation because there were multiple layers to dig through and scrape off. This was the most difficult section. Really. The very worst. Despite our best efforts, we were unable to completely remove the caulk despite using acetone to loosen it. Justin squeezed a paint scraper between the roof and the trim pieces and carefully peeled them away from the structure.
- This action should be taken with extreme caution.
- After removing the top trim pieces, we turned the roof over onto the garage floor to finish the job.
- This is an older camper that has seen some damage, but we wanted to make certain that we did not add any new dents to the outside, so we took extra care.
- Remember that the aluminum skin is extremely delicate, and even the smallest screw or wood chip beneath the shell might cause significant harm.
- Following that, we removed the remaining trim, including all of the brackets, internal lights, and vent garnish.
- To remove the roof’s lengthy side panels, Justin gently tapped the interior of the panels with a rubber mallet, causing them to come away from the top.
- The very top tier of the ceiling is covered in wallpaper, with thin luan paneling beneath it for added texture.
It’s a little difficult to get rid of the paneling.
The luan came off in parts, and it was really difficult to get back up.
Then we could slide the paint scraper underneath it and lift another piece of paneling out of the way to make room.
The adhesive bond was still rather strong in this area as well, so the insulation came off in large chunks as a result of this.
It was actually rather effective, and as an extra benefit, no one woke up with a hurting back the next morning!
REMOVING THE FRAME AND CLEANING THE ALUMINUM
We used a crowbar and a rubber mallet to pry the roof structure off the rafters. This substance was similarly difficult to remove, and it came off in chunks as well. We would pry up a little piece of the wood, soak the next layer in acetone, and try again in a few hours. It was a frustrating process. This was also a time-consuming process. There was a great deal of scraping and cleaning taking place. When dealing with acetone, always remember to use a mask and nitrile gloves to protect your hands.
- However, once the majority of the wood had been removed, we began removing both the front and rear end pieces.
- There was a lot of scraping and prying and a lot of acetone and elbow grease involved.
- In addition, we removed the metal from the side boards and the floor.
- This is what we were left with after deconstructing the roof, which took the better part of two weekends (and several visits to Home Depot for acetone) to accomplish.
- For those of you who have roof rebuilds on your to-do list, I hope this piece has been helpful–and if you have taken on this job yourself, please share your experiences in the comments section below.
We’d be delighted to hear your suggestions. See how we renovated the inside and ceiling in our video below. Don’t forget to check out this post as well:
PART TWO: REBUILDING THE INTERIOR AND CEILING
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Camping is a blast!
Fixing Pop Up Camper Leaks – How to Do It Yourself
Since purchasing our pop-up camper in December, I have gained a great deal of knowledge. The first thing to note is that everyone who has spent time in a pop up camper has a very precise view on “How to Do It” or if you are doing it “wrong.” In general, there is a vast online community that may be really helpful when you are experiencing difficulties. Just remember to keep your skin thick. Some of those points of view are not sensitive at all! Aside from that, having a camper propels one into the realm of DIY at breakneck speed!
- And it has received a great deal of positive feedback.
- As a result, there is some wear and tear.
- In the rain, we had a look at the camper that we eventually purchased.
- It was made certain that fixes were in place.
- We did, however, experience a leak shortly after doing all of our work.
- We didn’t want to lose track of what we had accomplished, and we had already planned excursions.
- There is a complete Eternabond camp as well as a camp for replacing the original seams with new pieces.
- No, it was not because we were sluggish and didn’t want to utilize factory or replacement components to repair it.
- First and foremost, my husband removed the current center seam that runs down the centre of the dresser drawer.
|The original middle seam had been patched and had served its purpose.In places it was cracking, brittle and completely loose.|
Once the seam had been removed, he used a Stanley 47-442 Chalk Reel with Blue Chalk to trace a line through the middle of the fabric, marking 2 inches to either side of the central seam. This chalk line will assist in providing a working area within which to finish cleaning up any remaining goo and to lay down the aluminum sealing tape, if necessary.
One such brand is Eternabond. If you are having difficulties getting the putty and residual silicon (if you have any) out of the way, Goo Gone Pro-Poweris the right product to use to assist you.
|The Goo Gone and a scraper were used to remove any remaining putty or silicone.We wanted to make sure that we had a good adhesion with the new tape.|
In order to work inside the 4-inch chalk line and remove any existing paint and goo down the middle, we used a 3M Paint and Rust Stripper Brush. It worked great! This will provide a smooth surface on which to apply the aluminum tape down the middle.
|The wire brush attachment on the drill gave a nice clean surface to work with.|
Following that, it is necessary to thoroughly wipe the surface with Acetone around the borders and along the centre. Once again, the aim is to get a flawless seal and finish! Then, starting at the top of the middle seam and working your way down, substitute stainless steel screws for the ones that were previously there. It is critical to use shorter screws in this phase since the middle strip will not be returning to its original position. Along with that, we usedGorilla 100 percent Silicone Sealant, Clear, 2.8 oz.
|New screws to hold everything down and put in with sealant to give a good airtight and water proof seal.|
Using Eternabond White Mobile Home RV Rubber Roof Repair or classic Eternabond aluminum tape, work your way around the chalk line to create a 4-inch strip of roofing material. We made use of aluminum. Because we intended to repaint the entire work, we chose this color. One issue that I’ve heard over and over is that Eternabond looks cheesy on the roof, which I believe to be true. Painting, on the other hand, allowed us to disguise the metal tape strip. Overall, it didn’t make a difference. One camper commented that he was more concerned with the function of the roof than with its appearance.
Of, I am camping not making the cover and lovely camper magazine.
In addition, the interior of our camper is one of my favorites.
|The aluminum roofing tape was easy to put down.It is important to work in small sections and smoothing with plenty of pressure all the way down to ensure a good seal and to activate the adhesive.|
All that remained was for us to make a decision. We could have debated and argued about the best approach to complete this task for an eternity. But, no matter what, it would be a lot of labor and a bet on whether or not it would work out. There was also no assurance that this would be successful. Several campers speculated that I could be seeing leaks around the air conditioner that had nothing to do with the middle seam! There were a plethora of options for accomplishing this. We came to a decision and stayed with it!
- There are a plethora of brands to choose from.
- One well-known brand is Dicor RPMRC1 Elastomeric Metal RV Roof Coating, which is manufactured by Dicor.
- White is a good choice.
- That would be really uncomfortable.
|The roofing paint covers the aluminum tape nicely.Once two coats were applied and dried, the tape disappeared and looks really nice!|
As a last step, I used Dicor 501LSW-1 Lap Sealant to seal any other edges or areas that needed sealing. The seals and caulking surrounding any camper should be checked at least once a year, according to what I’ve read. It is just a necessary aspect of routine maintenance. So, here we are in the first year of our journey. I want to have a small amount of aluminum tape and sealer in our camper in case we need to do any repairs while on the road. That’s all there is to it. We are pleased with the preliminary findings.
- It was time to replace it.
- If we had tried to place this over the existing seam, it would have worked, but it would have been really difficult to work with because it was so thick.
- Was it able to withstand the test?
- The week after we completed this repair, we were hit by a heavy downpour.
We are both sure that removing all of the previous strip, glue, putty, and silicone allowed for a nice, clean connection between the aluminum tape and the aluminum tape backing material. The roof paint turned out to be a plus. And it actually doesn’t appear to be that horrible!
Following the completion of the roof painting, we have chosen to return and paint the entire camper in one coat. Everything will be in harmony, as well as fresh and clean. It’s a little room that’s simple to decorate. I’ll provide an update after the conclusion of the spring/summer camping season on how it’s held up so far. We acquired this camper on the cheap with the aim of getting into family camping with a fixer-upper before investing a lot of money on anything new. It has worked out well for us.
- For the time being, we are fond of our little Peggy Sue.
- It has taken a lot of effort to reach to this point.
- I’m sure that seasoned campers will have suggestions for how we could have done things better next time around.
- I’d be interested in learning more about it.
- This is our first voyage, and we are going to start on it.
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Written by: Allen MichaelfromSaws The Saws Hub project became essential as a result of my assuming ownership of my family’s camp trailer. This brings back many happy memories from my youth. Every summer, we traveled across the country in it with our family, including a remarkable journey throughout the whole United States. Similarly, I’d like to establish a similar tradition with my expanding family. I started renovating the ancient family tent trailer as a fun DIY project, and I started with the inside ceiling, which took the longest to complete.
Tent Trailer History
This Coleman tent trailer is a vintage; it was built in 1979, making it more than 40 years old. However, they produce a high-quality product, and the bones were still in fantastic condition. However, in order to make it truly enjoyable to use, I needed to do certain repairs and enhancements. Fortunately, the most of it was minor. The frame and body are in good condition and may be put to good use. A new canvas wall was installed in lieu of the old canvas walls around 20 years ago. Because the roof has not been leaking, the canvas is still dry and does not have any stains or mold on it.
The mechanism for raising the roof was still in working order.
As a result, I purchased two new tires as well as a new spare tire.
The internal ceiling was one of the things that truly needed to be repaired.
In this case, it was the original vinyl material that had been glued to some very thin wood slats, which were then glued to the inside of the roof structure itself. The adhesive had failed, and the ceiling was collapsing in on itself! It was simply a matter of replacing it.
The Research Phase
In the first place, there is surprisingly little information accessible on the internet on how to repair and restore a trailer ceiling. The majority of the options I saw required screwing into the existing ceiling using wood screws. According to what I previously stated, the roof did not leak, and it was crucial to me that it remained that way. I didn’t want to screw straight into the ceiling for fear of generating a leak if the screws broke through and caused a hole. As a result, the problem became rebuilding that ceiling while avoiding contact with the metal roof shell with any sharp objects.
- Everything I did didn’t want to come into contact with the metal top, or roof, of the trailer. I didn’t want to screw anything into the roof because doing so could create a situation where water could get through
- I wanted to create an interior ceiling that looked nice while also being highly functional and simple to install
- I didn’t want to screw anything into the roof because doing so could create a situation where water could get through. This roof had served me well and was watertight for 40 years, and I had no intention of changing it.
I decided against installing thin carpet or linoleum on the ceiling and instead went with plywood as the ceiling material. We weren’t sure if we wanted a completed wood look in the finished ceiling or if we wanted a clean, painted look in the final ceiling when we started. At the conclusion of the day, I decided to glue the ceiling into position. So, in order to fulfill my goals, I would want a really powerful adhesive that would hold the new ceiling in place for an extended period of time. Underneath the sinking vinyl is an old wood ceiling.
Replacing the Tent Trailer Ceiling
I would require the following materials: 1/8″ plywood for the ceiling; furring strips; 14″ wood screws; a circular saw; a screwdriver; and a track saw. T Glue with a Difference The following are the procedures I used in order to install the new plywood ceiling: 1.I began by prepping the existing ceiling to accommodate the furring strips and joists. I was going to be gluing the strips to the roof, so I wanted to make sure the surface was as clean and level as possible. Additionally, I was responsible for designing the electrical route that would go through the new ceiling.
- 3.I measured and prepared to put furring strips width-wise along the roof, aiming for a distance of approximately 1 ft between each furring strip.
- 4.After that, I started the process of putting the furring strips in place on the ceiling.
- I didn’t want to screw anything into the metal roof, so I used Special ‘T’ adhesive to attach the furring strips to the roof instead of screws.
- 5.After attaching the furring strips, I waited for the adhesive to dry and cure completely over the course of a weekend.
- However, allowing it to heal is always a good idea.
- The track saw was ideal because it allowed me to lay down the enormous sheets of plywood on the foam insulation that was resting on the ground and make excellent, exact cuts without having to move them.
- I used wood screws to attach the plywood to the furring strips, which I found to be rather effective.
- We’re almost halfway through the process of mounting the wood panels to the ceiling.
- When it was finished, I had a whole new ceiling that looked fantastic.
Using the strong adhesive, I had glued the plywood ceiling to furring strips, which were in turn affixed to the roof. This enabled me to achieve my aim of installing a ceiling without having to make any changes to the roof, which was 40 years old. The mission has been completed!
Pop-up Camper Roof Repair Suggestions by Roberts Sales. Denver Colorado
Although it’s unpleasant to think about, the reality is that hail, fallen tree branches, awning poles caught in a strong wind, pebbles, and aggressive neighborhood kids, among other things, may all pose a threat to the roof of your camper. Listed below are some recommendations for camper roof repair:
Caulking is the most simple and least expensive repair (apart from duct tape, of course) that can be made. Silicone caulking performs admirably. Some caulking, such as Pro-Flex RV caulk, is designed expressly for the recreational vehicle sector. However, the caulking guarantees that the roof inside remains dry and protected, but the repair is visible from the outside.
A Fiberglass patch is a mat of Fiberglass fabric that is used to cover a damaged area on a roof and is kept in place with an epoxy glue to prevent further damage. Although the patch is robust and lightweight, the repair is obvious, just as it is with caulking.
Automotive Body Filler
To repair holes in a damaged aluminum roof, automotive putty (such asBondo) can be used to fill the holes. Following hardening, the surface can be tooled and painted to simulate the “orange peel” finish found on many camper roofs. Despite the fact that it gives a more aesthetically pleasing surface than caulk or a Fiberglass patch, body filler may fracture with time and necessitate repeated repairs. Older Flagstaff campers have metal siding on the outside of their roofs. Fiberglass roofs are currently being used by tent campers in Flagstaff and Rockwood.
In light of this expansion, as well as the potential for body filler to fracture as a result of the movement, we do not advocate this type of roof repair for Fiberglass roofs.
Depending on the size and location of the roof damage, a properly located roof vent may be able to serve as a temporary replacement for the damaged region. Not only does the damaged place on the top disappear, but the camper also benefits from the increased light and air circulation. Please keep in mind that installing a vent takes more time and effort than caulking or applying a Fiberglass patch, and that the position of the repair is restricted by what will appear natural to the camper (a mass of caulking could end up looking better than a vent that looks out of place).
Not only can spray-on liners such as Line-X and Rhino Liner help to seal roof cracks, but they also help to protect the roof from further dents, scratches, and stray sharp objects. Both Line-X and Rhino Liner provide a white substance that may be used to match the original color of most camper roofs. Despite the fact that a spray-on liner is the most expensive option available short of replacing the roof totally, it offers additional protection from potential damage that even a new roof cannot equal.
If your camper is already in the shop for a spray-on roof, it’s conceivable that the front panel can be added at a little cost to the overall project at no additional charge. Your camper’s front panel will now be better protected from dents as a result of this modification.
If all else fails, new roofs for Flagstaff and Rockwood campers may be ordered directly from the manufacturer. Listed below are some tips on how to repair a roof. It is simply sealing the roof and replacing an old roof with a new roof that we provide as services. Return to the Articles and Tutorials page. Return to the top of the page Roberts Sales is committed to protecting your privacy from 2009 through 2022. All intellectual property rights are retained.
How to Repair a Pop-Up Camper Roof
Many more enjoyable camping experiences may be had with a permanent roof. Featured image courtesy of Thinkstock Images, Comstock, and Getty Images Having a sturdy roof on your camper may make the difference between having a good or unpleasant camping experience, no matter what sort of camper you have. In addition to keeping you dry and warm, a leak-free roof assures that you will not have water damage to your camper’s floor or other areas of the camper’s interior. If you have a pop-up camper with any gaps in the roof, there’s a good probability that they’ll result in some sort of water damage down the road.
Put on safety goggles, a face mask, and work gloves before you start working. Because the materials you’re using to repair the fractures are highly poisonous, you should take extra precautions to avoid inhaling the fumes.
Drill holes at the ends of the gaps in your roof using your drill and a drill bit to prevent water from entering. This will help to prevent the fractures from growing further.
Rubbing the roof material on the crack and in the surrounding area with a metal file can help the filler material to adhere more effectively.
ABS cleaning solvent should be used to clean the region around the crack. The chemicals required for repairing the roof may be bought at any home improvement stores.
In a glass container, combine one part ABS powder with one part methyl ethyl ketone powder and mix well to combine. Wait several minutes for the mixture to become sticky before serving.
Apply the goo to the cracks in your pop-up roof with a paintbrush or sponge. Because the material dries quickly, it is important to complete your task as quickly as possible. Any spills or drips should be wiped up immediately using an old rag to prevent the gunk from causing harm to other portions of the roof. ReferencesTips
- Whether you are the original owner of a pop-up camper with a leaking roof, check with the manufacturer to see if the camper is still covered by any manufacturer’s warranties. Some roofs may still be covered by a manufacturer’s warranty under certain circumstances.
Biography of the Author The Oregonian’s parenting and fitness sections, CareerAddict’s careers section, and Black Hills Woman’s travel and gardening sections are among the topics Nicole Vulcan has covered since 1997 as a writer. Vulcan graduated with honors from the University of Minnesota with a Bachelor of Arts in English and journalism. She has also been an athlete her entire life and is currently pursuing certification as a personal trainer.
Rexoseal RV Tent Trailer Roof Repair Kit
As a protective barrier, our tent trailer roof sealant may be put over conventional surfaces on tent trailer roofs such as rubber (TPOEPDM), fiberglass, wood, and metal. It can be applied in a variety of ways including brushing or rolling it onto the roof and spraying it onto it.
In the event that you have a tent trailer roof repair job that needs to be done, then this is the product for you! View our instructional video! Features of the RV Tent and Trailer Roof Repair Kit by Rexoseal
- Custom colors are available upon request. Please get in touch with us for additional information. Compared to other less expensive coatings, Rexoseal has a rubber content of 55-60 percent. Increasing the amount of rubber in Rexoseal Sealants results in a more durable and longer-lasting seal. In contrast to other coatings that require a catalyst to be mixed in, Rexoseal is a Water-Based Sealant that does not require the work to be completed in a single day
- Instead, it may be applied in many days. Rexoseal is a Do-It-Yourself system that is simple to use and comes with step-by-step instructional videos
- It is also available in Spanish. With Rexoseal Coatings, there are no specific tools or abilities necessary. Working with Rexoseal is entirely risk-free, and cleanup is as simple as soap and water. Rexoseal does not emit any foul-smelling fumes, in contrast to other coatings. Highly durable with enhanced UV protection to endure the harshest of outdoor conditions. In extreme hot and cold circumstances, it maintains its flexibility. There is no chalking or washing off with Rexoseal, leaving a white trace on the sides of your RV. Your roof will look great when it is completed, and it will retain its original color with no fading or yellowing over time. Mildewcide and microbicide protection has been added to protect against mold, algae, and microbial development. No more caulking is required since the seams will be entirely sealed. For the duration of the roof’s life, maintenance is simple. Rexoseal is non-flammable and non-toxic, and it is environmentally friendly. However, with occasional recoating, Rexoseal will last the whole life of the RV
- It is covered by a 10-year limited warranty. Most importantly, we provide old-fashioned customer service and are always there to assist you
In the event that you need to return your order for any reason, we are happy to assist you!
- Returns are accepted within 30 days of the date of delivery of your product. To receive a complete refund to your original payment method, you must return your merchandise. Costs associated with shipping are non-refundable. Products must be brand new, unopened, and in original packaging. The buyer is responsible for the cost of return shipping. For further information, please contact us.
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Coleman Popup Trailer ABS Roof Repair
Fleetwood Folding Trailers (FFT) (who sold trailers under the Coleman name) began employing an ABS roof on its Coleman popup trailers in 1996, and they were the first company to do so. The concept appeared to be sound: a robust one-piece roof with no seams to allow water to soak through. Unfortunately, these roofs have had a number of issues, including drooping, bending, cracking, and delaminating. Around 2003, FFT began to phase out the use of these roofs. FFT morphed into FTCA, which continued to replace roofs under a lifetime guarantee until it was bought by Blackstreet Capital Management in 2008.
- There will be no warranty servicing if there is no firm.
- Fortunately, there is a wealth of information available on the internet on the repair of these ABS roofs.
- Cracking and delaminating are problems, but there are remedies.
- We have a Coleman Cheyenne from 1996, which was one of the first trailers to feature an ABS roof.
- The new roof had a better form (it was topped in both directions) and a metal support brace to keep it in place.
- The awning rail had cracked and had opened up
- It was a safety hazard. The roof was riddled with fissures, the most of which were little but a couple of them were bigger
In this essay, I’ll go through what we did to fix our roof and how it turned out. We were fortunate in that our roof did not have any delamination, therefore I will not be discussing that. However, if you are experiencing delamination concerns, there is a wealth of information available on the internet. We fixed our roof in two stages: first, we removed the old shingles and replaced them with new ones.
- Awning rail has been replaced. Cracks were repaired and the roof was covered with Grizzly Grip.
The replacement of the awning rail will be detailed in a separate post.
The remainder of this piece will be devoted to the restoration of the roof. Because our roof did not have any delamination, the procedure was rather straightforward:
- Inspect the roof and repair any significant fractures that you find
- Grizzly Grip should be applied on the roof.
A large number of fractures were seen on our roof. The most were little, but there were a handful that were a little larger. Although none of the fissures appeared to be causing structural problems, I was afraid that if left unattended, these cracks might result in delamination. There are several minor cracks. “data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”Lots of little cracks” data-large-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”Lots of small cracks” srcset=srcset=srcset “h=604 908 watts, h=1208 1816 watts, h=100 150 watts, h=199 300 watts, h=511 768 watts, h=681 1024 watts “sizes=”(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px”> sizes=”(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px”> There are several minor cracks.
” data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”And some larger ones” ” data-large-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”” srcset=srcset=srcset “h=604 908 watts, h=1208 1816 watts, h=100 150 watts, h=199 300 watts, h=511 768 watts, h=681 1024 watts ” sizes=”(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px;” class=”(max-width: 908px)” “> The following is an example of a formalized formalized formalized There are also some larger ones.
Because we had so many cracks, I opted to only fill a handful of the larger ones and let the roof treatment (Grizzly Grip) take care of the rest.
when the author does a better job than I do at covering the subject matter.
The difficulty is that MEK is not readily accessible in California, so I had to make do with acetone as a replacement.
Making the ABS Paste
As opposed to MEK, I was apprehensive about how well acetone would perform. In the end, everything worked out OK; the largest issue was dealing with acetone, which is extremely volatile (it evaporates practically rapidly), limiting your working time with the paste to a few seconds. Here’s how I went about making the paste:
- Apache Replacement Parts provided ABS pellets for purchase. I put them in a tiny canning jar with 1 1/2 parts acetone to 1 1/2 parts pellets and let them sit for a few hours. Allow it to sit for at least one night. Using a screwdriver, stir the mixture. The ABS had divided into two distinct phases: a liquid slurry and a gel-like chunk (Figure 1). It took some effort on my part to break apart the lump and combine it
- Continue to add a little amount of acetone, stir, and let sit for a couple more hours before adding another small amount of acetone, stirring some more.
As a result, I got a wonderful paste that was a little thinner than toothpaste (and, by the way, the paste remained in good form in the canning jar for a week after it was made, proving that you can prepare this well in advance). ABS is formed by adding acetone to ABS and adding time. goo ” data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” data-small-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”ABS plus acetone plus time equals ABS” src=” h=604″ alt=”ABS plus acetone plus time equals ABS” goo” srcset=” h=604 908w, h=1208 1816w, h=100 150w, h=199 300w, h=511 768w, h=681 1024w, h=604 908w, h=1208 1816w, h=100 150w, h=199 300w, h=511 768w, h=681 1024w, h=60 ” sizes=” sizes=” sizes=” sizes=” sizes=” (max-width: 908px) ABS plus acetone plus time equals ABS.
100vw, 908px”>ABS plus acetone plus time equals ABS.
Filling the Cracks
I made the decision to go quick and filthy and simply fill in the cracks. I did not use a dremel to bevel the cracks or drill holes at the ends of the cracks; instead, I used a drill (as describedhere). If you have significant structural fractures, I believe that taking the extra measures is a wise idea.
Warning! I should have spent more effort patching up the holes. See the “Update” section at the end of this article for more information. One disadvantage of using acetone rather than MEK is that the paste’s working duration is only a few seconds. So here’s how the filling went:
- Remove the lid from the jar
- A coffee stir stick is used to scoop up some paste, which is then dabbed along the crack
- Scrape it in with a putty knife as soon as possible. Ensure that the jar is securely closed.
As a result, filling my cracks only took a few minutes. The Grizzly Grip is the next step.
Coating the Roof with Grizzly Grip
Grizzly Grip is a bedliner that has become popular for covering old ABS roofs because to its excellent grip. Any white bedliner would likely suffice, but Grizzly Grip is preferable because it is meant to be rolled on rather than sprayed on, making it more convenient for DIYers. The first step is to place your order for yourGrizzly Grip. Here is what I placed my order for:
- 1 4 X 8 Aliphatic Bedliner Kit, Snow White, Fine (comes with 2 4′′ rollers)
- 1 extra quart (it turned out that I didn’t need this for my 7 x 10 roof, after all). Despite the fact that I could have applied an additional layer if I had more rollers)
- 2 x 9-inch rollers Shipping to California cost $39 per order. A pair of gloves and an accelerant to be used in conjunction with the coating were included with the kit. The total cost was $217.36.
1 4 X 8 Aliphatic Bedliner Kit, Snow White, Fine (comes with 2 4′′ rollers); 1 extra quart (it turned out that I didn’t need this for my 7 x 10 roof after all). Despite the fact that I could have applied another layer if I had more rollers); Rollers, two nine-inch rollers; To ship to California, the cost was $39 including tax. A pair of gloves and an accelerant to be used in conjunction with the coating were included with the kit; instructions were also provided. $217.36 was the total cost.
- 9-inch roller handle
- 4-inch roller handle
- Metal roller pan
- Two 2-inch cheapo brushes (NOT plastic)
- Tape and a plastic drop cloth
- 9-inch roller handle a paint stirrer (which is used with a power drill to stir paint
- Be sure yours is tiny enough to fit into the gallon bottles!) Due to the fact that mine was too large, I was forced to use stir sticks at the last minute. Additional stir sticks
- 3M 6211 Paint Respirator
That final point is really crucial! The Grizzly Grip is quite unpleasant, and I was extremely grateful that I had worn a mask. Supplies ” data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” data-small-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”Supplies” srcset=” h=604 908w,h=1208 1816w,h=100 150w,h=199 300w,h=511 768w,h=681 1024w,h=604 908w,h=1208 1816w,h=100 150w,h=199 300w,h=511 768w,h=681 1024w,h ” sizes=”(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px”>Supplies” sizes=”(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px”>Supplies The process of coating the roof went as follows:
- Roof cleaning should be done thoroughly. Maybe as well cover the entire trailer
- Cover the rubber gasket that is attached to the roof with plastic drop cloths and newspaper and protect the edges of the trailer with newspaper.
- I made the decision to keep my gasket in place. If you’re changing your gasket, you can remove it
- However, you may want to mask around the awning rail and clasps if you’re not sure what to do.
Acetone should be used to clean the roof (or MEK) Open a gallon of Grizzly Grip, pour in the accelerant, and shake vigorously. Apply the initial coat by rolling it on. Wait until it is completely dry to the touch (about 2 hours for me) New rollers are used to apply the second layer. Here are a handful of pointers:
- This should not be done in direct sunlight. I painted mine in the late afternoon shade
- I used 4′′ rollers for the sides and 9′′ rollers for the top
- I used a 2′′ paint brush to daub paint around the awning rail, among other things
- And bits of the rollers were taken off and imbedded in the Grizzly Grip. This is a complaint that I’ve heard from others. Because the Grizzly Grip degrades the rollers, it’s possible that I took too long or overdone the project. I’m not sure. It doesn’t appear to be too awful, although I do have some blueish speckles on the roof at the moment. It’s important to note that Grizzly Grip behaves differently than paint, and my first layer was a tad gloppy in certain spots. It’s possible that you’ll want to start with a light coat.
Overall, I’m quite pleased with the results. If I had to do it all over again, I would get more rollers and apply three thin layers instead of the two medium ones I applied. I have enough Grizzly Grip on hand to pull this out. Was it able to conceal the cracks? Yes! Although not all of them were executed exactly, the overall result was really nice.
There will be no more cracks! “data-medium-file=” data-large-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”No more cracks!” data-large-file=” src=” h=604″ alt=”No more cracks!” srcset=srcset=srcset “h=604 908 watts, h=1208 1816 watts, h=100 150 watts, h=199 300 watts, h=511 768 watts, h=681 1024 watts “sizes=”(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px”> sizes=”(max-width: 908px) 100vw, 908px”> There will be no more cracks! There are a few little pieces of roller foam visible here and there. I’ll just have to deal with it. It appears to be in better condition than it did previously.
That squiggly line is caused by dirt on my camera’s imaging sensor.
Update (July 9, 2018)
There is both positive and negative news three years after the repair was completed.
- Good: the Grizzly Grip has shown to be quite durable. There is no oxidation, no flaking, and the finish is still quite beautiful
- The good news is that the bigger cracks I repaired with ABS paste are holding up rather well so far. The bad news is that more fissures are beginning to reappear. There were a couple of hairline cracks and a couple of bigger cracks that I did not fix but should have. The Grizzly Grip did not cause this, but rather my inadequate crack filling
- I accept responsibility.
Some of the lessons learnt are as follows:
- Put some filler in those crannies! as many as you possibly can
- Other than maybe skimming them with ABS paste, it is unclear whether there is anything that can be done regarding hairline cracks
- It’s probable that you’ll need to touch up your paint job every few years
Nonetheless, I’m satisfied, and so far, this appears to be the only practical method I’ve found for extending the life of a Coleman ABS roofing system.